Travel

Showtime: Germany

In Weimar, a permanent tribute to a favorite son

 

Bloomberg News

Germany’s national poet is omnipresent in this pretty baroque city. Walking from Goetheplatz to the Goethe National Museum, I passed the Goethe Cafe, the Goethe Kaufhaus and the Hotel am Goethehaus.

The time is ripe, then, for the comprehensive permanent exhibition dedicated to the author of Faust that has just opened in the museum next to his house.

Over two floors, Lebensfluten — Tatensturm (Flood of Life — Storm of Deeds) explores Johann Wolfgang von Goethe’s political career, his love life, his interest in art, his scientific research and, of course, his writing. (It turns out he didn’t actually write in later life; he dictated, and then made additions and corrections by hand.)

Exhibits include his extravagantly embroidered suspenders, a collection of erotic cameos; heavy gray wool travelling coat and a copy of Michelangelo’s Last Judgment that found its way into his collection. Goethe was an obsessive collector. The museum estimates that he accumulated as many as 56,000 items, coins, art, rocks and ceramics.

The new show gives a sense of the times, and is a welcome complement to Goethe’s house next door, which brings alive the author in a way no exhibition could. The grand classical staircase he added, inspired by a visit to Italy, the casts of Greek and Roman sculptures, and the walls covered in paintings and graphics provide insight into his tastes and varied interests.

Cabinets for his collections line the rooms, many of which are painted in cheery bright colors. As a young musician, Felix Mendelssohn entertained guests for hours on the piano in one of the drawing rooms.

The writer moved into the spacious house in 1782 as a tenant. In 1792, Duke Carl August of Saxe-Weimar-Eisenach bought it for Goethe as an important mentor who was also his privy councilor.

Goethe held an astonishing array of offices under the duke’s reign — he was in charge of the local copper mines, waterworks, road-building, taxes and fires and flood crisis management. Later, he oversaw the theater, the building of the city palace and the ducal libraries.

He died in 1832 at age 82 in an armchair next to the simple wooden bed, by his study crammed with his books and collections. The study is still exactly as it was at the time of Goethe’s death, thanks to a detailed inventory.

The number of visitors to Goethe’s house each day is limited and often there is greater demand than can be accommodated, so visitors are allocated times and sent away. The new exhibition offers a good way to while away the time before your time slot.

•  Goethe National Museum with Goethe Residence: 011-49-3643-545-400; www.klassik-stiftung.de (click on “English,” upper right).

Read more Travel stories from the Miami Herald

  • The travel troubleshooter

    Hotel chain’s just blowing smoke

    Let me state my bias up front: Smoking should not be allowed in a hotel room. Ever. Unfortunately, at the time you stayed in your hotel, Florida state law permitted smoking. But a look at the Days Inn site also showed that the room type you booked also said your room would be “nonsmoking,” which led you to conclude you wouldn’t have to inhale trace amounts of carcinogens as you slept.

  • Travelwise

    6 things to ask before booking a summer vacation

    It’s mid-May. Memorial Day and the end of the school year are in sight. Suddenly, you’re thinking about a summer vacation. A little advance planning — and some insider tips — can save you a lot of money. Whether you’re booking airfare, a car rental or a hotel room, there are questions you should ask first.

  •  

The Confederate flag of the 7th Virginia Infantry Army of Northern Virginia Obverse was captured at the Battle of Gettysburg and is part of an exhibit at the The Museum of the Confederacy.

    Showtime: Virginia

    Battle flags are centerpiece of Gettysburg show

    Among the swords, the wrenching letters home and the haunting photographs in the Museum of the Confederacy’s new exhibit on Gettysburg, few artifacts embody the ferocious battle more than the eight battle flags recovered from the bloodied fields where Pickett’s Charge was fought.

Miami Herald

Join the
Discussion

The Miami Herald is pleased to provide this opportunity to share information, experiences and observations about what's in the news. Some of the comments may be reprinted elsewhere on the site or in the newspaper. We encourage lively, open debate on the issues of the day, and ask that you refrain from profanity, hate speech, personal comments and remarks that are off point. Thank you for taking the time to offer your thoughts.

The Miami Herald uses Facebook's commenting system. You need to log in with a Facebook account in order to comment. If you have questions about commenting with your Facebook account, click here.

Have a news tip? You can send it anonymously. Click here to send us your tip - or - consider joining the Public Insight Network and become a source for The Miami Herald and el Nuevo Herald.

Hide Comments

This affects comments on all stories.

Cancel OK

  • Videos



  • Quick Job Search

Enter Keyword(s) Enter City Select a State Select a Category