Latin American & Caribbean Travel

Caribbean

Josephine’s humble beginnings on Martinique

 

The Empress’ girlhood home may be a world away from France, but the island remains decidedly French.

If you go

Getting there: Air France flies to Fort-de-France from Miami. American Airlines flies to Fort-de-France through San Juan, Puerto Rico. Flights can be pricier to Martinique than to some of the other islands frequented by Americans.

Travel tips: Think of Martinique as Tropical France: You’ll be spending euros, and speaking French is widely expected on an island still off most Americans’ radar. Nightlife varies from Miami Beach-style restaurants and bars to the local hang-outs where Martinique’s smooth, golden beer, La Lorraine, is cold and relatively cheap. A car is helpful for journeys to rum distilleries or other attractions, unless you arrange a tour; boat tours are another way to see both coastlines. There is a Club Med, but all-inclusive resorts don’t divide the beachfronts as they do in other Caribbean locations; in fact, all beaches in Martinique are public.

Les Trois-Ilets: The village is about a half-hour ferry ride (6 euros) from the capital, Fort-de-France. You can also drive into the village along the Bay of Fort-de-France coastline.

Domaine de la Pagerie: www.napoleon.org/en/magazine/museums/files/Domaine_Pagerie.asp. A roughly 15-minute drive from the center of Les Trois-Ilets. Open Tuesday-Friday, 9 a.m.-1 p.m. and 2 p.m.- 5:30 p.m.; weekends, 9:30 a.m.- 2:30 p.m.

Information: www.martinique.org


Associated Press

Even now, Paris feels a world away from this tropical paradise.

How much farther the immense capital must have seemed to Marie-Josephe-Rose Tascher de la Pagerie, a teenager on a remote sugar plantation with an improbable future. “You will be queen,” a fortune-teller told her, according to the local legend.

Indeed, she would leave this southeast Caribbean island and rise through French society through the last days of its monarchy, the French Revolution and Reign of Terror to marry Napoleon Bonaparte, who would crown her Empress Josephine.

If she returned to Martinique today, she would find a sophisticated French-influenced culture enhanced by the flavors and rhythms of the non-Europeans who have lived here for centuries. They make up most of the population of this chic yet laidback island, which dips into the Atlantic Ocean on one side and the Caribbean Sea on the other.

Josephine’s humble beginnings on Martinique are explored here in a museum, the Domaine de la Pagerie, just outside the resort village of Les Trois-Ilets, named for three little islands just off shore.

When Josephine lived here in the mid-18th century, Martinique was a French colony. Her family owned more than 200 slaves on their plantation south of the capital, now called Fort-de-France, and the songs sung by these slaves and their descendants in Martinique’s sugar cane fields are now performed by professional musicians and dancers wearing bright Madras plaids in luxury hotels.

Just the foundation of their “great house” remains, a modest stone square set in a green field of grass under the gaze of a white stone bust of Josephine.

The original house, set atop a small hill with a view of its fields in the valley below, was blown down in a hurricane when Josephine was not much more than a toddler. Financial problems kept her parents from rebuilding, so the family moved into the upper quarters of the property’s sugar factory. The foundation that remains supported a wooden house built after Josephine left for France in 1779.

The stone factory walls remain standing in the shade of leafy palms. Another circular building has been restored as an open-air pavilion, where a handful of massive rusted cylinders and gears rest, long past use as parts in the sugar-grinding machines.

The kitchen, also a separate building, has been restored as a small museum containing Josephine’s tiny, canopied bed, portraits, porcelain gifts bearing Napoleon’s and her faces when they were the toast of Europe, and a copy of her letter of marriage to Napoleon, along with other historical documents.

There are also rusted chains that once shackled slaves, resting at the bottom of a glass case.

The legacy of slavery still tarnishes Josephine’s reputation in Martinique. Many still blame her for Napoleon’s reinstitution of slavery when France regained control of its colonies from the British, even though it’s unclear whether Josephine influenced that decision. It certainly would have benefited her family, members of the island’s wealthy elite who have considerable land holdings to this day.

Perhaps this is why Josephine’s face and name are absent from most of the island’s narrow streets, colorful buildings and even the Pagerie’s gift shop, which mostly features postcards of island scenes. And there’s nothing subtle about the condition of the statue of Josephine in the main square in Fort-de-France, where the intimidating stone fort still looms over cruise ships and ferries in the harbor. The white stone figure is regal in a flowing, low-cut gown, but it was vandalized years ago — beheaded, red paint splattered down the white dress and Josephine’s name struck from the pedestal.

Read more Latin American & Caribbean Travel stories from the Miami Herald

  •  

Paraguayans returning from shopping in Clorinda, Argentina carry boxes and bags across the international bridge over the Pilcomayo River into the town of Nanawa, Paraguay.

    Argentine cash controls bring bargains, headaches

    The Brazilian visitors gawk in wonder as they stroll past shop windows along touristy Florida street in the Argentine capital. The jackets, the shoes – they’re all so cheap when your purse is stuffed with black-market money.

  •  

Scenes from "Pirates of the Caribbean" were shot at Gold Rock Beach on Grand Bahama Island.

    Going by sea

    Exploring Grand Bahama Island

    From the deck of Banana Bay restaurant on the south shore of Grand Bahama Island, where I waited for a plate of conch fritters, I admired the pretty but empty beach that stretched to the east: a narrow, curving strip of white sand; a shallow lagoon of clear blue water; a hammock strung between two wind-bent palms.

  •  

The wind-swept beach of Gilpin Point on Great Abaco.

    Bahamas

    Cay-hopping: Abaco vs. Exuma

    As our small Saab turboprop swooped airport-ward, the scene came into focus through the wavy airplane window and jet fuel ripples: Islands scribbled in the sea like the impressions of a 2-year-old who has hoarded all the greens and blues from the giant box of crayons.

Miami Herald

Join the
Discussion

The Miami Herald is pleased to provide this opportunity to share information, experiences and observations about what's in the news. Some of the comments may be reprinted elsewhere on the site or in the newspaper. We encourage lively, open debate on the issues of the day, and ask that you refrain from profanity, hate speech, personal comments and remarks that are off point. Thank you for taking the time to offer your thoughts.

The Miami Herald uses Facebook's commenting system. You need to log in with a Facebook account in order to comment. If you have questions about commenting with your Facebook account, click here.

Have a news tip? You can send it anonymously. Click here to send us your tip - or - consider joining the Public Insight Network and become a source for The Miami Herald and el Nuevo Herald.

Hide Comments

This affects comments on all stories.

Cancel OK

  • Videos



  • Quick Job Search

Enter Keyword(s) Enter City Select a State Select a Category