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New York

Reopened fort on Governors Island traces U.S. history

 

Going to Governors Island

Governors Island is open through Sept. 30 on Saturdays, Sundays and Labor Day, 10 a.m. to 7 p.m. Special, ranger-led tours of Castle Williams take place on Wednesdays and Thursdays, with advance reservations necessary (go to nps.gov/gois). Free ferries to and from Governors Island run from the Battery Maritime Terminal at 10 South St. in Manhattan and from Pier 6 in Brooklyn Bridge Park, located at the foot of Atlantic Avenue (corner of Columbia Street). For the ferry schedule, http://govislandblog.com/summer-ferry-schedule/. East River ferries leaving from various places on the east side of Manhattan and from Brooklyn also stop at Governors Island at a cost of $4 per ride (www.nywaterway.com/erf-home.aspx).

Entrance to Castle Williams is by timed ticket. A separate ticket is needed to tour the interior and climb to the roof with its harbor views. Tickets are free and are available at a gazebo next to the fort. Castle Williams is open from 10:30 a.m. to 4:15 p.m. whenever Governors Island is open. Information: www.nps.gov/gois.

Food and water: Governors Island has limited food facilities and no potable running water. Bring bottled water and snacks or better yet, a well-stocked picnic basket. Food options on the island include vendors at Picnic Point, a food court in the historic district, and Water Taxi Beach, which offers a full bar and grill.

EVENTS

Every weekend throughout the summer, there are special events on Governors Island. In addition, some exhibits and activities are in place all season long, through Sept. 30. These are among the highlights. For the complete list, go to www.govisland.com/html/visit/calendar.shtml.

Mark di Suvero at Governors Island: Presented by Storm King art Center. Free exhibition of monumental sculptures, installed throughout the Island’s public spaces.

Process: 5th Annual Sculptors Guild Exhibition on Governors Island. Curated by Mikaela Sardo Lamarche and featuring work from members of the Guild and an invited guest artist, Faith Rinngold. For more information, including a schedule of hands-on free workshops and events, visit sculptorsguild.org.

“Tattered and Torn (On The Road To Deaccession)”: Empire Historic Arts Fund presents the fashion exhibit, an installation of costumes de-accessioned from various museums due to condition issues that make them undesirable for exhibit in the upper echelon museum world. Empire Historic Arts takes a different stance and offers them as an amazing resource to people interested in the design and construction of 19th century costume.

“Painting Governors Island”: An exhibition of en-plein-air watercolor and oil paintings exploring the island’s unique setting. The harbor, the industrial Brooklyn waterfront, the New York City skyline and the bridges are all wonderful motifs from this inspiring location. The island, with its strange mixture of buildings, both utilitarian and historic, is in itself a fascinating subject. Building 20. Through Sept 30; free.

Lower Manhattan Cultural Council’s Arts Center at Governors Island: An art space featuring a gallery and studios for visual and performing artists. Building 110 opens for 2012 with exhibitions, performances, open studio events, and tours, as well as programs that are part of the River To River Festival. Information: www.LMCC.net and www.RiverToRiverNYC.com.

National Park Ranger Programs: Ranger programs on Wednesdays, Thursdays and Fridays are the only way to see the island outside of the weekends. Ranger programs also offered throughout the day on Saturdays and Sundays. Information: www.nps.gov/gois or 212-825-3045.

Orientation to the History of Governors Island: Through Aug. 28, 11:25 a.m., 1:25 p.m., and 3:25 p.m. Join a National Park Ranger for this 45- to 60-minute walking tour to discover how the role of Governors Island evolved to meet the changing needs of New York City and the nation.

Bicycle Tours of the Island: 2 p.m. every Saturday and Sunday. Join a National Park Ranger or volunteer for a 90 minute tour of the entire island. Meet at the National Park Service ticketing center located outside of Castle Williams. No reservations are required. Bring your own bike!


Travel Arts Syndicate

The courtyard of Castle Williams on Governors Island was sultry, the sky threatened rain. Mike Shaver, supervisory park ranger for the National Park Service, turned his key in a heavy metal door and swung it open. Inside, it was cool. The eight-foot-thick sandstone walls of the 200-year-old fort acted like a cave, the ranger said, keeping the interior at a more-or-less constant temperature all year long.

In front of us was one of the fort’s 39 large, vaulted casemates, designed to hold two guns each and to guard New York harbor from enemy invasion. In 1807-1811 when the fort was built, that would have been the British.

The fort, with several landmark accolades that include the National Register of Historic Places, was named for its designer, Lt. Col. Jonathan Williams, a great-nephew of Benjamin Franklin, who shared some of his great-uncle’s scientific and engineering genius. On May 26, it reopened to the public after a three-year, $6.1 million renovation.

Castle Williams and Fort Jay, a slightly older fort, are the core of the 22-acre Governors Island National Monument on 172-acre Governors Island.

Previously forts had been star shaped, like Fort Jay. Williams, the first head of the Corps of Engineers and the first superintendent of West Point, figured out that a round fort on the western flank of Governors Island, facing New York harbor, would allow coverage in all directions. His round forts became prototypes for coastal fortifications.

“One of the reasons why circular towers didn’t work in the old days was that if you penetrated them, they would collapse,” said Shaver. “Williams built arches into the casemates so that in the event that you were lucky enough to go through seven or eight feet of sandstone and breach the walls, the building wouldn’t collapse.”

Nevertheless, Williams’ supervisors were dubious. “His superiors were old fellows left over from the Revolution,” said Shaver. “They were always fighting the last war. They had some doubts about [Williams’ design]. To prove his point, he had two Navy ships fire on the fort from about 400 yards away. All they succeeded in doing was to knock a cannon off its carriage. Williams sent the Secretary of War a newspaper clipping that said the barrage had destroyed a cannon. At the bottom of the clipping, he wrote, ’It didn’t destroy a cannon! It knocked off a cap plate and lock screw and knocked it off its carriage. It’s still serviceable.’ ”

Castle Williams has 78 embrasures (openings) for guns positioned on three tiers. Williams designed the casemates with high ceilings and openings between them in order to help dissipate the smoke from firing the guns.

Telescopes mounted outside Castle Williams that are trained on Castle Clinton in nearby Battery Park and on Fort Gibson on Ellis Island show how these and several other forts positioned according to Williams’ plan provided an impregnable defense of New York harbor. All were built prior to the War of 1812 when the threat of war with the British was imminent. The plan worked. The British burned down Washington, D.C. and attacked Fort McHenry in Baltimore but they never attacked New York City.

A model of the fort as it looked originally is in the middle of the Castle Williams courtyard. It was a handsome building, with outdoor walkways flanking the imposing arches of the casemates. Large murals show key dates in the fort’s history as it evolved from its original purpose — defense of New York harbor — to a prison for Confederate soldiers and Union deserters during the Civil War and later, during the 20th century, to a prison for the U.S. Army that became known as the “Eastern Alcatraz.”

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