Restaurants

Spirits

How to host a rum-tasting party

 

There’s not spitting at rum tastings — maybe that’s why they’re so much fun.

Four Flights of Rum

I’m not going to offer tasting notes; that’s for you and your friends. Instead, here are a few facts on production and origin.

Flight 1

The two “white” rums selected are actually both lightly aged, then charcoal-filtered to remove the brown barrel color.

El Dorado, 3 year old. ($17). Demerara rum from Guyana that has become a bartender favorite for rum cocktails.

Banks 5 Island ($28). A blend of 20 or more rums from Trinidad, Jamaica, Barbados and Guyana; contains bit of Batavia arrack, a wild rum from the island of Java made from fermented red rice.

Flight 2

These two rums hail from French-speaking islands and are medium aged.

Rhum Clement V.S.O.P. ($42). A rhum agricole from Martinique distilled from fresh-pressed sugar cane juice rather than molasses, as are most other rums.

Rhum Barbancourt, 8 year old ($22). Classic rum from Haiti, also made from fresh pressed sugar cane juice.

Flight 3

These two rums approach late middle age. Consider the effect that more than a decade of barrel contact has on the spirit.

El Dorado, 12 year old ($26). The older brother of the 3 year old. See what nine more years of aging in whiskey barrels does to this Guyanese favorite.

Appleton Estate, 12 year old ($35). From the famed Jamaican distiller, aged in used Jack Daniels barrels.

Flight 4

These rums push the top end of aging. Both are classics — not just in the rum category, but among spirits in general.

Rhum Barbancourt Reserve, 15 year old ($37). Compare the difference in this Haitian rum with its eight-year-old little brother from Flight 2.

Flor de Caña Centenario, 18 year old ($42). This, from Nicaragua, might be Central America’s finest rum.

Jason Wilson

Note: Sunset Corners Fine Wine & Spirits, 8701 SW 72nd St., Miami, carries all eight rums.


More rums to try

Robert Burr, founder of the Miami Rum Renaissance Festival (rumrenaissance.com), says South Florida’s diversity and Caribbean focus make it one of the best places in the country to buy rum. Burr offers these tasting suggestions in four price categories:

Quality

Botran Reserva, Guatemala ($25). A superior cocktail spirit from the folks who make Zacapa rums, the Reserva delivers fine flavor without breaking the bank.

Premium

Brugal 1888, Dominican Republic ($48). Double casked in American white oak, then sherry casks, this brilliant sipping rum contains rums aged 5 to 14 years.

Luxury

Zacapa XO, Guatemala ($95). This exquisite solera blend of very old rums compares favorably with the world’s best cognacs, single malts and luxury whiskeys at a fraction of the price.

Prestige

Diplomatico Ambassador, Venezuela ($250). Master blender Tito Cordero presents his crowning achievement in this pinnacle spirit of perfection.


Beverage

Jamaican Punch

This recipe dates from the 17th century and is beautifully pink. The strawberry syrup and the allspice add a layer of complexity to what is a refreshing summer quaff. Use a white or light rum such as Chairman’s Reserve Silver, Rhum Barbancourt Blanc or Rhum Clement Premiere Canne. The strawberry syrup must be cooled completely and can be made several weeks in advance.

For the strawberry syrup:

2 cups water

2 cups sugar

6 to 8 strawberries, hulled and sliced

For the punch:

Freshly squeezed juice from 8 or 9 limes (1 cup)

3 cups white or light rum

3 to 4 cups water

2 to 3 pinches ground allspice

Ice, for serving

Strawberries, sliced, for garnish

Make the syrup: Combine water, sugar and strawberries in a medium saucepan over medium-high heat. Bring to a boil, stirring constantly to dissolve the sugar. Reduce the heat to low and cook for 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and cool completely. Strain out and discard the strawberry slices. Cover tightly and refrigerate.

Make punch: Combine the lime juice and strawberry syrup in a punch bowl or pitcher until well blended. Slowly add the rum, stirring constantly. Add the water 1 cup at a time, tasting as you go. Stop at 3 cups of water if you prefer a stronger punch. Season with the allspice to taste.

Refrigerate until well chilled. Serve in punch cups or rocks glasses filled with ice. Garnish with the strawberry slices. Makes 16 servings.

Source: Adapted from “The Punch Bowl,” by Dan Searing (Sterling Epicure, 2011).

Per serving: 170 calories, 0 g protein, 19 g carbohydrates, 0 fat (0 saturated fat), 0 cholesterol, 0 sodium, 0 dietary fiber, 17 g sugar.


Washington Post Service

Most people who love wines have probably opened a number of bottles to sip and compare across styles and grapes. But while you occasionally hear of an expensive scotch, tequila or cognac dinner at a nice restaurant, you rarely hear of people hosting informal tastings at home.

Given the growing popularity of spirits, I think it’s high time for enthusiasts to consider hosting a tasting party.

There’s not spitting at a spirits tasting (more about that in a minute), so they’re much more raucous affairs than wine tastings. At the wine school where I teach, it’s almost always the same: My students look at the flights of liquors before them and their eyes widen, but by the end of the second round, the sommelier in the next classroom knocks on the door and asks us to settle down.

Fun, yes, but here’s a major geek alert: An undertaking like this is for people who have been getting deeper and deeper into the world of spirits and cocktails. Maybe you’ve got a growing collection of bitters and foreign bottles, and have started making special cocktails at home.

If this describes you — and there are definitely more and more of us — I can assure you there is no better way to ramp up your knowledge than a comparative tasting around a category or theme.

My most recent rum tasting was a great example. Over the past few years I have collected rums of varying ages, styles and geographic locations. I was interested in how aging affected different rums, so I put together several rounds of tastings, or flights, based on age. Four friends and I tasted from youngest to oldest, taking our time, writing notes and discussing the rums after each flight.

In the end, we came away with a better understanding of how different rums age and how it affects tastes. More important, we learned our own preferences.

There are several key differences between a spirits tasting and a wine tasting. The first is how one actually tastes. Unlike at a wine event, where you vigorously swirl the liquid in your glass to release aromas and “open up” the wine, you don’t want to agitate spirits so much. If you vigorously swirl a 100-proof rum or bourbon, all you’re going to get is a face full of alcohol.

Instead, gently twirl the glass, allowing the liquor to coat its sides. For me, the ideal glass for whiskey or rum is a nosing glass that’s bulb-shaped and tapers to a narrow rim.

Next, it’s important to begin with a tiny sip that clears the palate. Follow up with a larger sip that coats the mouth.

As previously mentioned, this is key: Don’t spit.

The reason: The finish is so important. Fine spirits should have a long, pleasant, lingering finish, not a hot, kerosene-like burn.

Because professional spirits tasters almost never spit, we always sample with much less liquid than we would with wine: about a half-ounce. A taste of wine would be about an ounce. I can taste 50 or more wines in an afternoon, spitting them as I go, but once I taste a dozen or so spirits, my palate starts to get overwhelmed. For a newbie, the number is more like eight.

Another issue with a fine spirits tasting is that the expense can be much greater than that of a wine tasting. To keep costs in check, I’ve chosen to focus on rum for our sample tasting, because rum is comparatively cheaper than whiskey, brandy or tequila.

I’ve mapped out an eight-rum tasting, divided into four flights. The cost to do this entire tasting is around $250. Not cheap. But if you organize a party with six to eight friends, no one should spend more than about $40. To keep costs down, you could taste four rums, one from each flight.

To make a tasting party even more festive, I always make some kind of punch, to serve either as everyone arrives or as a palate cleanser after the tasting. In this case, keeping with a rum theme, I choose the classic Jamaican Punch. Save the aged rums for the tasting, and use a good-value light rum, such as Chairman’s Reserve Silver, in this punch.

Jason Wilson is the author of “Boozehound: On the Trail of the Rare, the Obscure, and the Overrated in Spirits” (Ten Speed, 2010).

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