Cook's Corner

Cook’s Corner

‘Philpee’ query opens window on hard times in rural South

 

Sleuth’s Corner

Q. Years ago I worked with a woman who made a pineapple cake that was the best I have had. It had a whipped cream mixture on top and in the layers. It had to be refrigerated. I have lost the recipe and wondered if any of your readers had a similar recipe.

Lynn, Athens, Ga.


Bread

Charleston Philpy

1/2 cup milk

1/2 cup all-purpose flour

1/2 teaspoon salt

3/4 cup soft, cooked rice

2 teaspoons melted butter

1 egg, well beaten

Grease a deep 8- or 9-inch square cake pan. Heat oven to 450 degrees.

Whisk milk slowly into flour and salt. Beat out any lumps. Mash the rice until almost smooth. Combine with the flour mixture. Add the butter and egg.

Pour batter into pan, smoothing to edges, and bake 30 minutes. Butter generously, cut into 8 portions and serve.

Per serving: 74 calories (27 percent from fat), 2.2 g fat (1.1 g saturated, 0.6 g monounsaturated), 27.3 mg cholesterol, 2.5 g protein, 11 g carbohydrates, 0.3 g fiber, 170 mg sodium.


Dessert

Flourless Chocolate Cookies

3 cups confectioners’ sugar

2/3 cup unsweetened cocoa powder

1/4 teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon pure vanilla extract

3 large egg whites, at room temperature

1 1/2 cups semi-sweet chocolate chips or 1/2 cup chopped nuts (optional)

Heat the oven to 350 degrees. Line two baking sheets with parchment paper.

Whisk the confectioners’ sugar, cocoa and salt to blend. Whisk in vanilla and egg whites to make a thick batter. Stir in the chocolate chips.

Spoon batter by rounded tablespoonful onto lined baking sheets, leaving a couple of inches in between. Place pans in freezer 5 minutes to inhibit spreading.

Bake 12 to 14 minutes, until tops are glossy and lightly cracked.

Slide the parchment paper (with the cookies) onto wire racks. When cool, remove cookies from paper. Makes 24.

Per cookie: 64 calories (12 percent from fat), 0.9 g fat (0.4 g saturated, 0.3 g monounsaturated), 23 mg cholesterol, 1.2 g protein, 13.8 g carbohydrates, 0.7 g fiber, 34 mg sodium.


Main Dish

Coconut Crusted Shrimp and Chicken with Bajan Hula Sauce

1 cup crushed pineapple (fresh or canned)

1/4 cup packed brown sugar

1 cup pineapple juice

1/4 cup Dijon mustard

1/2 cup rum

1 tablespoon finely ground rosemary

1/2 cup coconut flour or all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon sea salt

1/2 teaspoon pepper

Zest of 1 lime

2 eggs

3/4 cup panko bread crumbs

3/4 cup finely shredded, sweetened coconut

1 pound chicken tenderloins or chicken breast sliced into 1-inch-thick strips

1 pound shrimp, peeled and deveined, with tails on

To make the sauce, combine pineapple, brown sugar, pineapple juice, mustard, rum and rosemary in a saucepan. Bring to a boil, reduce heat and simmer until slightly thickened. Set aside.

Combine flour, salt, pepper and lime zest in one shallow bowl. Whisk eggs in second shallow bowl. Combine bread crumbs and coconut in third shallow bowl.

Dip chicken strips in flour mixture, then egg and finally in bread crumb mixture, pressing to adhere coating. Skewer strips by folding them back and forth, running skewer through chicken and spreading strips open on skewer. Prepare the shrimp in the same manner.

Heat grill to medium-high. Cook chicken on oiled grill, turning to brown both sides. Remove to upper grate, lower heat to medium, close cover and cook until internal temperature reaches 165 degrees, about 10 minutes.

Place shrimp on medium-high grill for 1 minute, turn and cook for an additional minute. Shrimp will turn pink. Serve with sauce for dipping. Makes 8 servings.

Per serving: 262 calories (22 percent from fat), 6.8 g fat (3.5 g saturated, 1.1 g monounsaturated), 154 mg cholesterol, 23.4 g protein, 24.3 g carbohydrates, 4.2 g fiber, 890 mg sodium.


LindaCiceroCooks@aol.com

James Doyle of South Miami asked for help interpreting an ancestor’s diary, which spoke of eating little but “philpee and milk” when times were hard in South Carolina in the 1930s.

Readers came up with two distinctly different possibilities. Most said philpee was simply a regional spelling for field peas, but two suggested the answer was philpy, a Low Country quick bread made with leftover rice.

“I lived in rural South Carolina in 1933, as the letter stated, and I’m sure she meant field peas,” wrote Elizabeth Neale of Homestead.

Liz of Fayetteville concurred. “If you say that word with the Southern rural accent, you have ‘philpees.’ My Southern family said ‘balled corn’ but was talking about ‘boiled corn.’ ”

“My mother believes ‘philpee’ is field peas,” wrote Paula McKenzie of Pinebluff, N.C. “She is a farmer’s daughter and grew up in central North Carolina. It is a crop that grows readily here and can be dried to be eaten later.”

“A lot of folks thought field peas were for the cows to eat, but because of the scarcity of food, they began eating the peas,” Theresa Cocolin said. “Today, Southerners love field peas and eat them with apologies to no one. They are good with onions chopped up in them or chow-chow spooned on top.”

“In Georgia they are enjoyed as much as black-eyed peas or new spring peas,” said Kathy Allsworth. “But in other parts of the south (such as Tennessee) they are used only as livestock feed and were never considered fit for human consumption. … My mother was from Atlanta, but married and moved to Northeast Tennessee. Field peas could not be found anywhere near our home so whenever we visited our family in Georgia my mother would bring a suitcase filled with cans of field peas back to the mountains with her. To this day these little peas, cooked in fatback or streak o’lean, are still my favorite.”

“I was born, in 1945, on a farm in Lumberton, North Carolina, which is very near the South Carolina state line (10 miles),” said Frank Britt. “The reference is probably referring to field peas, which could have been dried or canned and stored the summer before. Dixie Lee field peas are a very common summer garden crop in that area and are often stored for consumption in the fall, winter and early spring until the next summer crops are ready to be harvested. In short, probably just a spelling error. Looks very much like the way my grandparents would have spelled it. Literacy and education were in short supply in those times in that area.”

Thanks also to Joan Robinson Carthage, Patsy Frank, Don Udelson, Phyllis Piccini, Susannah and Robert K. and Emma G.

Ibby Voorhees and “Old Timer” both shared the philpy recipe here from the venerable Charleston Receipts cookbook by the Junior League of Charleston, S.C. Lynne Olver, editor of foodtimeline.org provided two published references to philpy, from cookbooks written in 1847 and 1930.

It will be up to James Doyle to decide which dish his ancestor “made do” with in hard times. I actually loved this bread, which has a texture much like my Italian grandfather’s polenta. Heat any leftovers in the morning for a quick breakfast, brushed with butter and splashed with maple syrup.

Summer parties

Sun-kissed days, rum and outdoor entertaining seems a perfect trifecta, so I was attracted to the recipes in a free booklet from Cockspur Rum titled Summer Entertaining. We enjoyed the tropical flavors in the coconut shrimp and chicken recipe here. You can find the booklet at stores that carry the rum or on Cockspur Rum USA’s Facebook page.

Q. Lots of bakeries around Miami are selling a flourless chocolate cookie. The ingredients are simply powdered sugar, cocoa and egg whites. Can you tell me how to make these?

Helene, Coral Gables

You don’t say whether the cookie is chewy or crisp. If it’s a chocolate meringue cookie you’re seeking, recipes abound. For a soft cookie, try the recipe here.

Send questions and responses to LindaCiceroCooks@aol.com or Food, 1 Herald Plaza, Miami, FL 33132. Personal replies are not possible.

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