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New York Fashion Week

Hot looks for Florida fashionistas

 

anniecvazquez@yahoo.com

New York Fashion Week’s Fall 2012 collections boasted plenty of luxe fur, tailored wool and plush leather on the runways last week. Yet, the Miami fashionista was not forgotten in many designers’ collections. In fact, plenty of them — from Rachel Zoe to Mara Hoffman to Carolina Herrera and Vera Wang — concocted a variety of looks in lightweight fabrics and styles perfectly befitting Miami’s climate.

Here are the trends for next season, and the designers who are setting them:

Hippie

Things were quite groovy and all about peace, love and happiness at Nicole Miller, Rachel Zoe and Betsey Johnson’s shows. While Zoe and Miller both found inspiration in Jimi Hendrix and Marianne Faithfull, Johnson was all about paying homage to The Beatles. Spotted down the runway were breezy silk floral frocks, sheer tops, A-line mini skirts, bell bottoms and tweed shorts fused with winter essentials like big floppy felt hats, boots, velvet blazers and shaggy faux fur coats.

Miller, a fan of the Magic City, said her new collection has many pieces geared for hot weather. “I love Miami. They will love my dresses from this collection. … There’s lots of lightweight fabric and sleeveless looks,” she said from backstage at Lincoln Center.

Bohemian Gaucho

Channeling the cowboys of South America, Carlos Meile and Mara Hoffman explored fashion through gaucho attire. Hoffman, a favorite at Mercedes Benz Swim Week in Miami for her goddess-like caftans and tribal swimwear, based her fall collection on the theme of “South American Shaman Cowboys.” Her flowy chiffon gowns and short fitted dresses with cutouts were decorated with everything from beading to prints with stars and meteorites referencing astrology and the Mayan calendar.

Meile turned to his native Brazil to create crepe boleros and jumpsuits with gold and grommet embellishments. He paired sand color and black crepe pants with bright sheer silk charmeuse tops in azure and tangerine tones. There were also plenty of gowns accessorized with multi-hued woven belts, open-toe booties and sombreros.

Pleats and

Color Blocking

Channeling Miami’s affection for bright hues were BCBG and Honor’s collections. Both lines also adopted the upcoming “it” trend of using pleats on everything from dresses, to pants to skirts and even pantsuits. Cherry, cobalt, neon yellow and purple were dominant in Giovanna Randall’s Honor line, which fused feminine silhouettes and menswear. Max Azria’s Max and his wife Lubov Azria opted for extreme color blocking on just about every piece.

The Experimental

For the Miamian who likes to break fashion boundaries, Custo Barcelona, Alice & Olivia, Charlotte Ronson and Vera Wang took their collections to new heights by playing with different cuts and styles. Evoking a bit of Lady Gaga flair were Wang and Spanish designer Custo Dalmau. “I chose to experiment by fusing different materials like patchwork, synthetic leather, cotton and wool all onto one piece,” Dalmau said. “For the Miami woman, we have a lot of silk and lightweight dresses.”

Wang took a more daring approach with her eponymous line by constructing a series of sheer dresses in nude net lace and silk chiffon suitable for an evening out in South Beach. Hollywood starlet favorite Stacey Bendet added Cinderella-channeling gowns with graphic prints to her Lolita-like Vixen collection, responding to requests from her clients. Ronson’s usual;y sporty attire matured this season. with fewer girly and more grown-up looks. One of her standouts was an unconventional hooded dress a la Grace Jones.

Classic

Among the bevy of fashion fads were the timeless collections of Carolina Herrera, Ruffian, Lela Rose and Naeem Khan. Herrera’s ornate, fairytale frocks became functional this season as she added pockets to skirts and breathtaking ball gowns. The Ruffian duo Brian Wolk and Claude Morais’ collection — A Concerto for Two — was all about well-tailored ensembles resonating with Neo Victorian styles. It consisted of silk Georgette billowy blouses teamed with thin lambskin and velvet skirts that work during Miami’s cold fronts. Lela Rose produced the quintessential line of romantic cocktail dresses for the Miami woman in florals, magenta, rust and pomegranate tones.

Rose, who was inspired by Spanish architect Santiago Calatrava, worked with chiffon, organza, tulle, lace overlay and silks. Naeem Khan used geometric prints and classic Indian paisleys and embellished them elaborately with mirrored discs, felt appliques and lots of beading.

There was nothing plain about the collection and yet somehow it reflected the effortlessly chic elegance that Miami embraces.

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