The City of Angels has quite a wingspan. If someone were to ask me where to drink in Los Angeles, my first question is not the standard “What type of bar do you like?” Rather, it’s “Where are you?” The good news is, almost any L.A. neighborhood has wonderful imbibing options. For a glass of champagne at an iconic Hollywood hideaway, Chateau Marmont is a must. If you need a dive — maybe one where you can sip beer and battle on vintage video games — there’s Blipsy Barcade in Korea Town. In my last jaunt through California’s sprawling metropolis, however, these three caught my attention:.

DOWNTOWN:

THE VARNISH

It’s a bit of two-for-one with Varnish. I’m not talking about drink specials — Varnish is not that type of bar. I’m talking about the fact that you must walk through another bar called Cole’s to find this hidden gem. Cole’s is definitely worth a visit, so come an hour early. After a drink at Cole’s, find the unmarked door in the back and venture into The Varnish. Hand-crafted cocktails, a rowdy piano player, penny-tiled floors and rich, dark red wood booths lay out a scene that’s almost more New York than L.A. Regardless, the warmth extends to the service, which is second-to-none.

Drink: A classic Sazerac ($13).

Contact: 118 E. Sixth St., Los Angeles; 213-622-9999; www.thevarnishbar.com.

HOLLYWOOD:

THE SPARE ROOM

The Spare Room at The Roosevelt Hotel is an enclave that could only be described by antiquated adjectives like “dapper” and “debonair.” The concept plays (literally) at the idea of coupling Victorian parlour games with cocktails revived from the same era. Anywhere else, this might come off as thematic and kitsch, but inside the authentic setting of one of Hollywood’s oldest and most noted hotels, it’s remarkably easy to slip into a night of late 1800s merriment. Lace up a pair of custom-designed bowling oxfords and perfect your 7-10 split on antique lanes or get a group for backgammon and Monopoly. What’s not to love about a place where you can learn mahjong while consuming a Pabst Blue Ribbon?

Drink: The Oakstone Way Punch. Bartender Naomi Schimek starts with fresh orange and lemon juice, house-prepared mulling spices, and natural cranberry juice, added to decadent cognac with a wonderful finish of Solerno Blood Orange Liqueur from Sicily ($60 for 5 servings).

Contact: 7000 Hollywood Blvd., Los Angeles; 323-769-7296; www.spareroomhollywood.com.

VENICE:

TASTING KITCHEN

This fairly new spot has been turning heads and earning awards. The food has been extolled, but the cocktails would keep guests lingering even if that lauded kitchen burned to the ground. Justin Pike, lead bartender, decorates the giant blackboard in fantastic chalkwork, highlighting his art skills alongside his palatable creations like the Crazy Horse, a combination of serrano tequila, lime, grapefruit and yellow Chartreuse, creating a spicy, sweet-and-sour take on a Tiki drink ($11).

Go: Early. This place gets crowded.

Contact: 1633 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice; 310-392-6644; www.thetastingkitchen.com.