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Bar scene: Prague

Prague may be famous for rooftops, but her best bars are in basements

 

Special to The Miami Herald

Political strife makes for great bars once reason and order have been restored. Eastern Europe, particularly Prague, is a great example. Out of hardship, people know the importance of gathering over a pint with friends or toasting the beauty of life with a shot of something strong. If you are on a mission for an unforgettable night in the heart of the Czech Republic, head below ground.

• U Malého Glena reminds me of a scene from one of those vacation-gone-wrong action flicks, where the happy group heads out to a bar (usually in Prague) and everyone has the time of their lives before getting kidnapped. Inside, the darkness seeps up and around the apexes of a vaulted, mustard-colored stone ceiling. A series of scattered, high-top tables must be navigated to make your way to the beaten wood bar, which is where you want to sit. The ’tenders here are 100-percent Czech and can lead you through local orders of indigenous brandy or city-brewed beers. The refurbished Baroque building houses apartments above, which translates to a split crowd of Prague locals enjoying post-work beers and international travelers who prefer staying somewhere authentic rather than necessarily exquisite. After you make friends, head downstairs to the room that put this dive in The New York Times. U Malého Glena’s basement jazz club features the city’s best in the genre, as well as blues artists on Monday nights.

DETAILS: malyglen.cz; Karmelitská 23, 118 00 Prague, 1-Malá Strana, Czech Republic. 011-420-257-531-717.

DRINK: Order a shot of Slivovitz plum brandy. Aged between five and 12 years in wood, the stuff’s quite popular in Prague.

• The Brewery Bar, at the Augustine Hotel: Prague’s been poorly served when it comes to displaying the authentic essence of age. Hordes of tourists have helped produce a place that feels more akin to Disney World, and in my opinion, the bright, garish paint colors of Old Town have stripped away some of the wonderful edginess that usually flourishes in cities of the former Eastern Bloc. So, I was skeptical of a suggestion to visit the Augustine Hotel’s Brewery Bar — a basement enclave that apparently produces a modern version of the 13th century, monastic-brewed St. Thomas beer. You enter a room that retains stalactites and stalagmites from the 17th century as part of the décor, surrounding a few pieces of more modern cubist furniture. The beer is splendid, rich and hearty, and it goes well with the menu of traditional Czech tapas. Furthermore, when the Rocco Forte Hotels Group purchased the building from the monastic order — then in dire straits from lack of funding — they retained a space for the friars, who still live on the property today.

DETAILS: www.theaugustine.com; Letenská 33/12,118 00 Prague, 1-Malá Strana, Czech Republic. 011-420-266-11-22-80.

ALSO VISIT: The Monastery Restaurant at The Augustine. It was named one of the Top Ten Restaurants in Prague for 2011.

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