My family's not a big fan of camping, but if what's called ``camping'' in the U.S. Virgin Islands is roughing it, then we'll take on that hardship any time.

The USVI are the birthplace of eco-camping, beginning with Maho Bay Camps more than 30 years ago on St. John. Upscale camping options have expanded since then, and they can make for a fun, affordable, and yes, comfortable family vacation adventure -- with spectacular views of lush, tropical mountains, white sandy beaches and aqua blue waters.

WATER ISLAND

The Virgin Islands Campgrounds on Water Island, a stone's throw from St. Thomas, is the latest newcomer to the USVI camping fray. A typical day at the camp goes like this:

In the morning, my daughter Olivia, age 5, and I sit on our lovely cottage balcony, viewing the sunrise over the lush mountains of St. Thomas. Mid-day, we snorkel and splash in the waves, and my daughter joins local kids swinging in the enormous trees on Honeymoon Beach.

By afternoon, the sea breeze whisks through our eco-cabin, as we laze on our futon couch, blowing any cares away. Happy hour is at Joe's Bar, a makeshift shack in the sand with a crowd of crusty sailor types, and children -- including mine -- running circles around them.

In the evening, we share meals and tales with fellow campers in a small communal pavilion. Then we head to the beach, where golf carts line up for a family movie projected on a big screen. Yup, this camping is tough.

Water Island is only a 10-minute ferry ride from Crown Bay on St. Thomas, but the island, just two miles long by one mile wide, offers a pristine escape far removed from the array of Caribbean resorts on steroids.

``This [island] has been good to me for 30 years,'' says Paul Quade, who together with his wife Deborah, built the campgrounds. ``I wanted a place that people could come enjoy for $125 rather than $400 a night.''

I smile wryly at that comment since across the bay, we face an expensive resort on St. Thomas where rooms with a view like ours can easily run $500 in season. What that resort offers in man-made beauty, the campground offers more naturally.

The campground consists of seven wood-frame, canvas-topped cabins nestled into the hills above the shoreline. Each comfortably sleeps up to two adults and two children.

In order to minimize the environmental footprint, small windmills draw electricity from trade winds to fuel the facility (there are electric outlets in cabins for guest creature comforts), rainwater is captured for the bathhouse, showers are solar-heated and there are compost toilets.

Our guest food supplies are stored in the communal refrigerator, but there are also a few casual restaurants on the island including Pirate's Ridge, which offers all-you-can-eat pizza specials on Fridays.

ART AT ST.JOHN CAMP

On neighboring St. John, an island that is two-thirds lush national park, Maho Bay Camps offers more basic accommodations. They are a little worn with age, but provide a rustic, back-to-nature experience that many families enjoy.

Maho Bay has 114 eco-friendly tented cottages, each with cooking facilities. Wooden walkways wind through the tropical forest (lots of stairs, so beware!). And while there are no hot showers and the bathhouses can be a hike, there is a pretty beach and water sports facility. There's also a restaurant on-site, provisions, and daily activities including yoga and park tours.