Aboud Kobaitri was born in Lebanon, apprenticed in a Paris restaurant, attended culinary school in Norway and now runs a little bistro in Cooper City. If his path to South Broward sounds curious, know that cooking isn't the chef's only love.

In Oslo, Kobaitri met Lori, a backpacker visiting from Davie, and ``the rest, as they say, is history.''

Married 27 years, the two have been side-by-side at their 84-seat gem, La Brochette Bistro, for nearly 17 years. She works the front, he's in the kitchen cooking delightful dishes that reflect influences of the Middle East, Europe, Scandinavia and South Florida.

The storefront is a quirky little oasis of fine dining in a typical suburban shopping center. The interior is like a favorite auntie's Old World parlor, with lots of knickknacks, framed posters and pictures, sconces and lamps. But white tablecloths, candlelight and pampering service let you know they're serious about fine dining.

Don't bother looking at the menu until you hear the specials. There are no fish listed, for example, because Kobaitri waits till he sees what's fresh that day, locally or air-shipped from Hawaii, like succulent barramundi and prized moi -- ``the fish of kings.''

Dive into a basket of warm rolls and listen to a tantalizing list of dishes that might include skate in a brown butter sauce with pomegranate seeds, smoked almond-crusted yellowtail snapper in a Key lime buerre blanc or Kurobuta pork in a raspberry chipotle sauce.

A starter of Prince Edward Island mussels brought more than two dozen delicious mollusks in a garlicky broth with brussels sprout leaves, chopped tomatoes and herbs from Kobaitri's gardens.

If it's available, go for the sublime lobster schnitzel. Kobaitri pounds the six-ounce Florida lobster tail to a thin slab, coats it with Japanese bread crumbs and sautées it to a golden brown. It's propped against a mound of homey mashed potatoes and finished with a perky Key lime beurre blanc.

Tender escargot in garlic butter are served alongside shiitake mushrooms and pine nuts dusted with panko.

Kobaitri is a whiz at cooking fish, whether it's skate, sea bass or snapper. We loved the Tasmanian salmon (from Hawaii), buttery tender with a hint of cinnamon. A crust of crumbled graham crackers doesn't overwhelm the mild, deep coral fillet.

Despite the name (for a favorite Norwegian restaurant), one of the few skewered items is grilled filet mignon and shrimp with tandoori paste. It's very good but not as exciting as the divine grilled steak, an ultra-tender cut Kobaitri calls the prime part of prime beef. Well-marbled, juicy and flavorful, it's nicely charred with a perfectly rosy center. Like most entrées, the special is plated with mashed potatoes, carrots, roasted red pepper and grilled zucchini and squash.

There's a varied international wine list of 70 choices, 15 by the glass, to match the eclectic menu.

Scrumptious desserts include bread pudding made with croissants, cre`me brulée, cheesecake and a fun new treat -- wine ice cream. Six cute shot glasses are filled with chocolate cabernet, peach white zinfandel, vanilla reisling, raspberry chardonnay, cherry merlot and port plus fresh berries. When the ice cream melts, drink it like a shot.

It's a sweet surprise, like La Brochette.