The history of punchbowl service in saloons and coffeehouses goes back to the mid-1600s by some accounts. It was, one might say, the original form of bottle service in the bar.

Punchbowls were placed on the bar and a five-part mixture of spirit, sugar, sour, water and tea or spice was created on the spot. Friends would then serve themselves by ladling the concoction into teacups.

Prohibition brought an end not only to public drinking, but also the charming act of serving the punches.

Once again -- thank you classic cocktail movement! -- there are several spots around the country dusting off grandma's glassware and recreating the experience of having a punch at a bar. Big Apple options that top the list:

BOBO

Wind your way down the dark set of stone stairs at this West Village address and you will be pleasantly rewarded with all this brownstone basement has to offer. Guests gather around low tables and crowd around the bar as bartenders mix up three signature punchbowls, The Happy Days, the New London and the Jolly Rodger. Request the New London: Beefeater 24 gin, St. Germain elderflower liqueur, Maraschino, green tea and Prosecco ($58, serves five).

• Details: 181 W. 10th St., 212-488-2626; www.bobonyc.com.

DEATH & COMPANY

If the West Village is too Prada and Posh Spice for you, but you still love to sip with your pinky extended, try Death & Company. Black walls, dripping chandeliers, antique mirrors and fantastic punches like the Nuts & Sherry bowl, combining spices and fruits layered into toasted pecan-infused Buffalo Trace bourbon. Request Mother's Ruin ($42, serves six).

• Details: 433 E. Sixth St., 212-388- 0882; www.deathandcompany.com.

CLOVER CLUB

Owner Julie Reiner is a stickler for presentation. That extends from easy-going ambience to the punchbowls at Clover Club in Brooklyn. Her glassware runs the gamut, all antique, and you can even sip fireside in the winter. The recipe selections rotate. Request the Pimm's Punch: Pimm's, gin, ginger, lemon, cucumber, strawberry and mint ($45, serves five).

• Details: 210 Smith St., Brooklyn, 718-855-7939; www.cloverclubny.com.