The 10,000 acres for the Killarney National Park was donated to Ireland in 1932 by an American, William Bowers Bourn, and his son-in-law, Irish Senator Arthur Vincent. It was Ireland's first national park.

Ross Castle, one of the most photographed spots in Ireland, shimmers with Gaelic good cheer. After touring inside the castle, tourists can ride back to town on a traditional horse-drawn ``jaunting car,'' an open-air cart that jostles along with the auto traffic on narrow roads. After a nice tea break with apple tart and thick clotted cream, things in Ireland start to look up.

RING OF KERRY

Killarney is the start of the ``Ring of Kerry,'' a 110-mile scenic loop south toward Kenmare and beyond to the west. Sheep wander across mountain roads. Vistas that even Queen Victoria's ladies-in-waiting found astonishing spread below. Kenmare, a jewel of a tourist town, is tiny and neat, with brilliantly colored gift shops as bright as a dancing girl's closet. Inside, they are chock-full of heavy Irish sweaters, blankets, crystal, lace and souvenirs. It's from Kenmare that Nellie, my husband's grandmother, emigrated.

``Did she ever talk about Ireland?'' I asked as we strolled the streets. ``About Kenmare? About her childhood?''

``Never,'' said my husband, whose grandmother lived with his family until her death.

``She wanted us to be Americans.''

Most people in the United States with Irish ancestors have their roots in western Ireland -- Kerry, Cork, Clare and Mayo counties, which were poor areas near ship ports. Luckily, this is also the most beautiful section of the country -- and the closest to being old-fashioned.

Notice, however, I did not say cheap.

CLASSIC SIGHTS

I hope I haven't scared you off. If you are still dreaming of Ireland, go. The classic sights are still there, waiting to be discovered. All are on the well-trod tourist path:

• Dingle Town: This touristy but picturesque seaside village has great shopping and is the gateway to Slea Head, the wild southwestern edge of Ireland. You can visit an ``Irish Famine Cottage,'' which explains why a land that once had 8 million people shrank to less than half its size as the potato famine struck in the 1840s. If you don't feel too guilty to eat, try dinner at Out of The Blue, which serves amazing fish.

• Adare: Lovely if somewhat manufactured, this ``traditional'' thatched roof village in County Clare has gorgeous tourist shops. Photo ops abound.

• Bunratty Castle, near Shannon Airport: A real, restored 13th-century tower castle hosts medieval dinner parties. Sure, it's corny -- you eat with your hands, drink mead and sing with serving wenches -- but the singers, violinist and harpist are first-rate.

• Blarney Castle: An even bigger tourist trap, but who can come all the way to Ireland and not kiss the Blarney stone? We took a back road from Kenmare to Blarney, which is northwest of Cork, and enjoyed every minute. The Blarney Stone is atop the castle, and you need to climb about 100 steps to get there. Lay on your back, stick your head out over a drop-off, and lean back and kiss a stone. One kiss, and you'll forever have the gift of gab.

• Waterford: A surprisingly nice town in southeast Ireland that is headquarters of Waterford Crystal. I highly recommend the well-run tour of the factory, which shows how every single piece of crystal is hand-blown, molded and made. Although prices are not significantly cheaper, the factory has some crystal not sold anywhere else, and it has good sales.

• Book of Kells at Trinity College, Dublin: These sixth through ninth century illuminated gospels are worth a look, but I enjoyed the tour of Trinity College more.

• The Cliffs of Moher: The spectacular cliffs on the Atlantic Ocean in County Clare should be appreciated for their intransigent nature, even if the rest of Ireland has changed so much that if the angels of Nellie and Patrick O'Donnell came back to Eire, they would be astounded to the tips of their brogues.