''They set up those chairs in the plaza for who? -- the high command,'' said Eduardo, a teacher. ``Because they know no one will be out celebrating 50 years of the same, 50 years of going backward instead of forward. This has been the reverse revolution.''

Eduardo acknowledged that Santiago, an eastern city that served as the nation's first capital, has traditionally backed the Cuban government. Many Afro-Cuban residents, particularly the elderly who suffered discrimination, applaud the Castro brothers for opening up educational and professional opportunities to people of all races and socioeconomic classes.

''I am sure that even now there are more Santiagueros who support the revolution than in any other part of the country,'' Eduardo said. ``But even the older people and the black people know . . . they know what this has been and they have suffered because of it.''

Cubans deeply resent strict controls, which prevent them from legally supplementing woeful salaries that average $20 a month. They say the government has cracked down harder on black market business that they need to survive.

Life got even harder this summer after a series of devastating storms ruined many people's homes and livelihoods.

''They are organizing this big celebration for those who can celebrate,'' said Yolys, a teacher. ``I bought a new dress for New Year's Eve but that means not having money to buy rum.''

``For most of us, it's like that. We'd rather be celebrating a different system, one where I could speak freely and buy the clothes I like, not just the ones I can afford.''

As Yolys looked at herself in the mirror at a nightclub bathroom and adjusted her tight jeans and tank top, she stared at the image for a few moments.

''Look older than 32, don't I? I look at least 40,'' she said. ``It is the life here. That's why I go out to places like this hoping to find a foreigner to fall in love with me. Don't get me wrong, I would not marry a fat disgusting guy. I want a nice one, one who can offer me a better life.''

The names of the correspondents who filed this report and the surnames of those interviewed were not published because the reporter lacks the journalist's visa required by the Cuban government.