Some overhauls try to lure older people or families with day care facilities where parents can drop kids while skiing. Others promote summer attractions like hiking or river rafting to bolster off-season revenues.

''There is so much snow here, it has real potential to become something special,'' said Anthony Mellowes, a property developer from Sydney who was in Hirafu scouting potential condominiums to buy.

''It's fantastic because you've got great skiing plus the different culture,'' he said.

Japan has long been a turnoff for foreign visitors because of its high prices and towering language barrier.

But towns like Hirafu show that times are changing. English permeates everything from restaurant menus and bus schedules to ski classes.

Tourists also lap up the Japanese twist on the downhill tradition -- ramen noodles at mountain huts instead of fondue, and ubiquitous hot spring baths to soothe sore muscles. Not to mention karaoke.

Yet some differences still take adjustment -- on both sides.

''When foreigners go to the public hot spring bath, they sometimes like to wear towels or swimsuits. But Japanese visitors just go in naked,'' said Kitami Itoh, a manager at the 506-room Prince Hotel in Niseko.

'Sometimes the Japanese complain about foreigners' manners.''

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IF YOU GO

• Skiing in Japan: www.snowjapan.com/e/resorts/prefecturedata.php. Ski guide to Central Japan: www.welovesnow.com/eng/index.php.

• Niseko: www.niseko.ne.jp/en/index.html. Niseko Powder Holidays: www.nisekopowderholidays.com/; 011-81-136-23-4844.

• Getting there: Niseko is a 2 ½ hour drive from the airport in Sapporo. Buses and trains are available.