CITY SNAPSHOT

• 15.8 million residents

• 570,000 hotel beds

• 3 million cars

• 66,000 taxis

• 1,000 new cars hit the streets each day

GETTING AROUND

Walking distances are greater than they seem on the map. The subway is quick and easy. Taxis are plentiful and super cheap -- the average ride costs less than $3 -- though you must be sure to have your destination written in Chinese. Rush hour is a nightmare of L.A. proportions.

Bicycles are another option; most streets have bicycle lanes, and the number of locals on bikes has dropped dramatically. But beware of the Left Turn Tangle; the contest for driving rights between cars, trucks and bikes isn't pretty.

WHERE TO STAY

Location matters; your trip will be easiest if you're near a subway stop.

Nearly all international luxury chains now have hotels in Beijing, including Ritz-Carlton, Raffles, Regent and Kempinski.

A few other options:

• Red Capital Residence: Five cozy rooms in an historic hutong house, opened by American Laurence Brahm. Friendly and fabulously atmospheric; best for savvy travelers who don't need day tours. www.redcapitalclub.com.cn; (011-86) 10-8401-8886. Doubles $190; singles $150. Think about overnighting at Red Capital Ranch, near the Mutianyu portion of The Great Wall.

• Crowne Plaza Beijing: All the modern touches in the Wangfujing shopping district, within walking distance of the Forbidden City. Internet specials from about $120. 800-496-7621; www.crowneplaza.com.

• Jianguo: This slightly older hotel in the heart of the embassy area has been redone with stylish, comfortable rooms and a soothing garden courtyard. Steps from an subway stop. Internet specials from about $120. www.hoteljianguo.com; (011-86-10) 6500-2233.

• Xinamo Youth Hostel: Friendly budget lodgings in an historic hutong district. The subway is a 15 minute walk, so you'll want to cab it. From about $27 double with private bath; single rooms available. (011-86-10) 8403-6146; fax (011-86-10) 6403-4152; e-mail xmqnjd@163.com; book through www.fab-hotels.com (look for 9 Dragon House).

BEIJING HIGHLIGHTS

The Forbidden City / Tiananmen Square: Built for a highly ritualistic feudal society, the Forbidden City was the home to the Emperor and his family, hundreds of concubines and eunuchs. With a whiff of imagination, you can envision the complex ceremonies and sweeping brocade robes of the court that took place in the vast courtyards of the world's largest palace, completed in the 1400s.

Organized tours allot two hours for a Forbidden City visit; on your own, you'll want at least that much time. Don't bother with the audio guide here or at other area sites; the info is basic and the electronic triggers are irritating at best.

Allow time for wandering around the Meridian Gate and Tiananmen Square just to watch the people, who are gracious, welcoming and may want to practice their English. Most people are happy to have their photos taken; show them the digital image and, if they speak English, offer to send them a copy by e-mail. It's a 15-minute walk from here to the new National Theater for the Performing Arts; try to stroll by if you aren't attending a performance there.

The Great Wall: Built over a 2,000-year-period, the Great Wall is a series of bulwarks rather than one continuous fortification. Still, it's one of man's most awe-inspiring accomplishments, adding to a total length of around 4,000 miles. It failed as a protection device; instead of breaching the wall, invaders bribed underpaid guards. As a tourist attraction, though, it's the top draw -- which can make the section near Bedaling, closest to Beijing, a mob scene.

More tranquil is the section at Mutianyu, 1 ½ to 2 hours from the capital through picturesque family villages, and well worth the journey. For about $7.25, you can take a cable car to the top (walking will take you a tough hour), stroll along the wall, then slip down on the winding tube of toboggan track. Sounds theme-parkish, but it's lots of fun.

If you're into serious hiking on unrestored sections, the stretch from Simatai to Jinshanling is recommended.

Temple of Heaven: The beauty of Beijing's icon of serenity belies its past as a temple of sacrifice to ensure a bountiful harvest. Originally built in 1420, it was rebuilt in the 1800s after a fire. What's best, perhaps, is watching the Chinese people who come here daily to play cards, dance and sing opera. Most hang out along the Long Corridor, though some are scattered around the park.

Summer Palace: Empress Cixi was the original Iron Maiden, ruling China in the late 19th and early 20th centuries with an unyielding fist that smashed even her son and nephew, ostensibly the nation's monarchs. The Summer Palace was Cixi's stronghold and retreat, a hillside garden of water, temples and pavilions that now, given the sprawl, sit just beyond the city center.

Hutong visits: The hundreds-year-old brick barrel courtyard houses are coming down fast, victims of the Beijing land grab. It's worth taking a hutong tour to the area near the Silver Ingot Bridge; if you don't take an organized tour, a cycle-powered taxi at the north end of the Forbidden City will do the trick.

Peking Duck: Quanjude is the city's most famous eatery for the city's namesake dish, with more than 160 million ducks quacked up for culinary posterity. There are outlets dotted around the city; your best bet is the original. Locals prefer the authenticity of LiQun, a revered family-owned operation whose historic hutong district is fast disappearing.

Cultural performances: Even young Chinese complain they don't quite get the harsh, tonal sounds. Acrobatic performances are easier on the ears and simply astonishing (how do they do that?) -- and more familiar for a Cirque du Soleil generation. Another option: a Kung Fu demo.

Shopping: Wangfujing is worth a stroll for the people-watching. But the goods you can get at home. Head instead to the Silk Alley Market (now indoors in its own five-story tower), where stylish seconds and fake designer goods -- clothes, bags and shoes -- feature familiar brand names at cut-rate prices. You'll also find plenty of Chinese souvenirs and silks, along with freshwater pearls. Haggle hard; you should pay about 25 percent of the asking price. Better for pearls is the Hongqiao Pearl Market near the Temple of Heaven. Note: Beware of electronic goods, camera cards and flash drives. They're often counterfeit or inferior and can quickly fail.

Massage: Throughout China, foot and body massages (clothes on) are an affordable treat, priced at around $20 for a 90-minute experience.

Dashanzi 798 art district: Located between the city center and the airport, 798 is home to more than 120 galleries featuring art that ranges from thought-provoking to predictable, plus a goodly number of cafes. Some areas of this industrial district are still working factories.

Dining/nightlife: The bar/restaurant scene is jumping; ask around for the latest hot spots.

At the Red Capital Club, created by American Laurence Brahm, you can lounge on the actual chairs once used by the Politburo as you sip your champagne, then dine in the courtyard of a restored hutong house. After dessert, check out the authentic Cold War fallout shelter. P.S.: The food is first-rate. www.redcapitalclub.com.cn, (011-86-10) 8401-8886.

Philippe Starck has brought his signature style to Beijing at LanClub, a restaurant/club in the Twin Towers complex in the diplomatic quarter. You know the drill: chandeliers and candelabra galore, paintings on the ceiling and plenty of campy glamour. Conde Nast dubbed it one of the year's hot tables. (011-86-10) 5109-6012.

-- JANE WOOLDRIDGE