A few miles north of Sonora sits Columbia State Historic Park, a site that once bustled with sourdoughs and eventually surrendered 2.5 million ounces of the golden pay dirt. The town of Columbia has been restored to its original semi-splendor, with two hotels dating from the 1850s, where you can stay for around $125-$145 a night, sharing the bath.

There's the dry-goods store (in its original building), the dentist's little shop of horrors and the Eagle Cotage, where cots rented to prospectors for 50 cents a night.

Here you can book a tour of the gold mines through Hidden Treasure Gold Mine Tours (209-532-9693). Or, if the gold bug bites, you can arrange your own five-hour gold-mining trip with California Gold on Woods Creek, between Jamestown and Sonora. The trek is $79 per person; kids under 12 go free (209-984-4914).

Gold panning of a different kind lies just southeast of Sonora in Tuolumne City at the Black Oak Casino, owned by the Mi-Wuk tribe. It has a bowling alley, video arcade for kids and a restaurant with good food.

In or near historic Murphys are several wineries, including Chatom Vineyards, Twisted Oak, the Milliaire Vineyard, Hatcher Winery and Ironstone Vineyard. Ironstone combines a winery with an entertainment complex that features big-name concerts in the summertime. Most of the wineries offer free tastings.

The last stop before you embark on Yosemite is the old town of Groveland. Just 25 miles from Yosemite, Groveland boasts the Groveland Hotel - a far cry from its 1850 humble beginnings - where rooms start at $135 and the vittles are something to write home about (800-273-3314).

Next door is the famous Iron Door Saloon and Grill, supposedly the longest continuously operating saloon in California.

From Groveland you can go on to fishing, hiking, whitewater rafting or houseboating on Don Pedro Reservoir, where a group can book a luxury houseboat for a three-day weekend for $1,695 (800-255-5561).

If you go ...

Transportation inside Yosemite: Visitors are encouraged to take the free on-off shuttle with 21 stops. Park at the day-visitor parking area, just south of the Valley Visitor Center. Gas not available within the park.

Lodging in Yosemite: For reservations, go to www.YosemitePark.com.

Guided tours: Book at the Tour & Activity Desk.

Park entrance fee: A $20 vehicle pass is good for seven days, individual pass is $10.

Temperature: Varies widely depending on altitude and season. Best time of the year to visit is the fall and spring, when temperatures are moderate. Many roads close in early November.

Wilderness treks in Yosemite: Free wilderness permits required. For more information, visit www.nps.gov/yose/wilderness.

Black Oak Casino information: info@blackoakcasino.com.

Columbia State Historic Park: www.parks.ca.gov.

Yosemite information: www.nps.gov/yose/home.htm.

Groveland Hotel and Restaurant: www.groveland.com.

For general Yosemite Park recorded info, call 209-372-0200.

Tuolumne County Visitors Bureau: 800-446-1333.