"What draws (visitors) here is the castle," Masterson says. "But what we hope to impart is the story of the land and the wonderful diversity of plants and animals." That, after all, is what attracted a Kansas City tycoon, a man who never got to enjoy the view from the castle he built.

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ORIGIN OF A NAME

Legend has it that "Ha Ha Tonka" translates to "Laughing Waters," but that's, well, laughable.

We do know that the name is some form of what the Osage Indians called the area. It might have been known as Ha Ha Tonka (sometimes written Hahatonka) in 1801-02, when Daniel Boone was on the scene trapping beaver. Meriwether Lewis, of the Lewis and Clark expedition, came through soon after.

When Ha Ha Tonka was dedicated as a state park in the late 1970s, an Osage chief said he didn't know what "Ha Ha Tonka" would translate to, park superintendent Nancy Masterson says.

She says "Tonka" means "The Great Spirit" or "The Great One." Something sounding like "Wa Tonka" is "the earth people." A loose translation of "Ha Ha Tonka" could be "The Great Spring," Masterson says.

Another theory is broached in a history of Ha Ha Tonka published by the Camden County Historical Society, which reported that "Ha" means "ready" and "tonga" means large. Hence "large readiness" - a village of five lodges that could react quickly to any enemy from the south.

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IF YOU GO:

GETTING THERE: Ha Ha Tonka State Park is about 165 miles southeast of Kansas City, about five miles southwest of Camdenton. One route from Kansas City: Take Interstate 70 east to U.S. 65 south. Stay on U.S. 65 about 75 miles to Preston. Turn left, or east, on U.S. 54 and continue about 30 miles. After crossing the U.S. 54 bridge over the Niangua arm of the Lake of the Ozarks, turn right onto Route D, which leads into the park. The address is 1491 State Road D, Camdenton.

From Osage Beach, go west on U.S. 54 through Camdenton to Route D. Go left on D to the park entrance.

WHERE TO STAY: Overnight camping in Ha Ha Tonka State Park is allowed only for backpackers along the rugged Turkey Pen Hollow Trail. Backpacker rules apply - no fire. Among choices for other accommodations:

Baymont Inn & Suites, 3501 Bagnell Dam Blvd., Lake Ozark. Free breakfast, wi-fi access in rooms. Rooms from $89. 573-365-2700, baymontinns.com.

Holiday Inn Express, 4533 U.S. 54, Osage Beach. Complimentary breakfast. Rooms from $95. 573-302-0330, HIExpress.com.

The Lodge of Four Seasons, Horseshoe Bend Parkway, Lake Ozark. Resort with two championship golf courses, spa, marina. Rooms from $125. Two- and three-bedroom condos, too. 1-888-265-5500, www.4seasonsresort.com.

Tan-Tar-A, State Road KK, Osage Beach. Resort with two golf courses, spa, marina, indoor water park. Rooms from $119; for two-night stay, $109 a night. On some dates, three-night special from $100/night. 573-348-3131, tan-tar-a.com.

WHERE TO EAT:

Many choices, including:

El Jimador, 5256 U.S. 54, Osage Beach. Mexican fare such as chili verde ($8.99) and Santa Fe chicken ($8.25). $5.25 lunch specials seven days a week. 573-348-4287.

Wobbly Boots BBQ, 5203 U.S. 54, Osage Beach. Pork spareribs (full slab, $19.99; half, $12.99), chicken dinner ($10.99), fried catfish ($13.99), beef sandwich ($6.99). 573-348-2277.

C.J.'s Home Style Cooking, 275 West U.S. 54, Camdenton. Diner-style eatery with daily specials such as fried chicken, potato, vegetable and soup/salad for $6.25. 573-346-6133.

J. Bruner's, 5166 U.S. 54, Osage Beach. Prime rib ($25, Friday-Saturday only), lobster tail ($45), rainbow trout ($20), chicken pasta ($16). Dinner only; reservations recommended. 573-348-2966, jbruners.com.

TO LEARN MORE:

Ha Ha Tonka State Park: 573-346-2986, mostateparks.com/hahatonka.htm.

Lake of the Ozarks State Park: 573-348-2694, mostateparks.com/ lakeozark.htm. Missouri's largest state park, about 20 miles from Ha Ha Tonka.

Lake of the Ozarks Convention & Visitor Bureau: 800-FUNLAKE (386-5253), funlake.com.