VISITING NASSAU AND PARADISE ISLAND

* Getting there: Several airlines fly nonstop from Miami and Fort Lauderdale to Nassau, a trip of about an hour.

WHERE TO STAY

* Atlantis on Paradise Island, 800-ATLANTIS; www.atlan tis.com. Rooms here range from unremarkable to nice. What you're paying for is the sprawling water playground and aquariums. Plus there's a casino, the Discovery Channel Camp for kids, tennis, golf, spa and marina. Rates before Dec. 21 range from $225 ($499 at Christmas) in the Beach Tower, the oldest section, to $315 ($599 at Christmas) in the Royal Towers, the newest addition.

* Comfort Suites on Paradise Island, 242-363-3680; www.choicehotels.com. With foldout sofas, rooms can sleep four. A noisy, cheerful family-oriented hotel with its own pool, it gives guests free access to Atlantis' water park and other facilities just a block away. Rates from $150 for two. ($295 at Christmas.)

* Graycliff, 8 West Hill Street, in the heart of Old Nassau; 242-302-9150; 800-688-0076; www.graycliff.com. This lovely old British Colonial estate was built in the 1700s and renovated into an elegant 20-room inn. Its five-star restaurant, handcrafted cigars rolled on the premises, tropical gardens and excellent service draw celebrities - and command a high price. Rooms $325-$450.

* British Colonial Hilton, One Bay Street, Nassau; 242-322-3301; www.hiltoncarib bean.com/nassau. At the foot of Bay Street near the Straw Market, this was once the grande dame of New Providence hotels. Opened in 1900, this stylish hotel has a nice beach, tropical landscaping dotted with hammocks and a soaring lobby with paintings depicting Bahamian history. Rooms from $175.

* Cable Beach Resorts, 800-222-7466; www.cable beachresorts.com. Cable Beach was once the hot, happening spot on New Providence. Now this trio of hotels - the Radisson, Wyndham and Nassau Beach - are showing their age. They are operated as one resort and are slated for upgrades before they are replaced in 2010. Casino, beach, snorkeling and frequent deals, including specials for Florida residents. Rates from $95, although at the oldest, the Nassau Beach, rooms are sometimes as low as $49 a night.

WHERE TO EAT

* The Poop Deck, East Bay Street in Nassau, just east of the Paradise Island bridge, 242-393-8175; www.thepoop deck.com. Get an outdoor table overlooking the Nassau Yacht Haven. Burgers, lobsters and traditional Bahamian food including cracked conch marinated in lime and spices, fried grouper fingers and steamed fish with tomato, onion and peppers. Burgers and sandwiches, $6 to $12.75; entrees, $16.75 to $22.

* Anthony's Caribbean Bar & Grill, Paradise Village Shopping Center on Casino Drive, Paradise Island; 242-363-3152. Pizza, salads, burgers, ribs and Caribbean dishes such as jerk chicken and Junkanoo Steak in a brightly colored setting with Bahamian art. Pizza, burgers, $9.75 to $12.25; entrees, $11.25 to $39.95.

* News Café, Hurricane Hole Plaza, Harbour Road, Paradise Island; 242-363-4684. Small, friendly café; indoor and outdoor tables. Serves newspapers, muffins, coffee drinks, salads, sandwiches, ice cream. Breakfast, $4 to $11; lunch, $5 to $12.

* Graycliff Hotel, 242-302-9150; www.graycliff.com, has two restaurants. The 5-star Graycliff Restaurant (entrées, $38-$60) features a noted winelist and sophisticated cuisine crafted from local ingredients. Humidor Churrascaria (dinner, $39.95) offers a more casual and less expensive alternative, with meat served Brazilian style, with skewer after skewer of different cuts brought to your table.

* Seafire, Marina Village, Paradise Island; 242-363-2000. A butcher's counter just inside the front counter clues you that this is a serious steakhouse. Signature dish is an extremely tender spit-roasted prime rib. Emphasis is on beef, but there are seafood and chicken, too. Entrees, $38-$44.

WHAT TO DO

* Ardastra Gardens, Zoo and Conservation Center: 242-323-5806; www.ardastra.com. The zoo is open daily; call for times for the marching flamingo shows and the Lory parrot feedings. Admission $12 for adults, $6 for children 4-12, three and under are free.

* Fort Charlotte, West Bay Street & Marcus Bethel Way; 242-325-9186. Built in 1788 to defend the western harbor, it has a moat, battlements, original cannons and a dungeon that you can tour.

* National Art Gallery of the Bahamas, West and West Hills Streets; 242-328-5800; www.nagb.org.bs. Opened in 2003, this is the first Bahamian government-sponsored art museum. Exhibits range from colonial to contemporary art. Admission, $3 adults.

* Pompey Museum of Slavery & Emancipation, Vendue House, Bay Street; 242-356-0495. The Vendue House, once the site of slave auctions, has exhibits portraying slavery and post-emancipation eras of The Bahamas, plus paintings by noted Bahamian artist Amos Ferguson. Closed for renovations until early 2006.

* Discover Atlantis tours, 242-363-6328. Tour includes the Ruins Lagoon, Predator Lagoon and The Dig; $29 adults, $21 ages 3-12, under 3 free. No access to beaches, pools or waterslides. Go to a Discover Atlantis kiosk in the Coral Tower lower lobby, adjacent to the Dig in the Royal Towers