Wine

Castles of Tuscany now welcome (tourist) invaders

 
 

Castello Banfi is also a working vineyard, turning out 125,000 cases a year of Tuscany's fabulous Brunello di Montalcino wine.
Castello Banfi is also a working vineyard, turning out 125,000 cases a year of Tuscany's fabulous Brunello di Montalcino wine.

VISITING CASTELLO BANFI

* Castello Banfi winery, Montalcino. (011-39-0577) 877-500 or www.castellobanfi.com. No charge; tours daily at 4 p.m., reservations required.

* Hotel Il Borgo, (011-39-0577) 877-700 or www.castellobanfiilborgo.com (same number for hotel and restaurants). Rooms $520-$1,105.

* Taverna Banfi restaurant, five-course Tuscan tasting menu with wines $80 per person; three-course $60.

* Ristorante Castello Banfi, five-course tasting menus with wines $110-$182 per person.

BANFI'S BALSAMIC VINEGAR SOLERA

La Balmaseria at Castello Banfi is a cellar in which wine is blended and aged into Banfi's version of that iconic Italian gourmet condiment, balsamic vinegar.

Banfi's is called Salsa Balsamica Etrusca. It's made by simmering grape juice down down to half its original volume, then aging it in a "solera system." In the solera, the juice is aged in a tiered system of five barrels -- oak, chestnut, cherry, ash and mulberry. Each year a bit of vinegar is moved from the oak barrel to the chestnut barrel, replacing vinegar moved from the chestnut barrel to the cherry and so on, with each barrel smaller due to evaporation.

At the end it's nothing like the $7.98 bottles of balsamic vinegar salad dressing on U.S. supermarket shelves. It's deep, dark, heady, pungent, sharp, sweet and viscous, with complex flavors of caramel and roasted chestnuts.

At $70 per five-ounce bottle, gourmets prize it, sipping it by itself in tiny portions or dribbling a few precious drops on ripe strawberries, cheeses, even ice cream.

WINING AND DINING AT CASTELLO BANFI

Il Ristorante, Banfi's Michelin one-star formal restaurant, offers a five-course tasting menu with wines for $180, including:

* Gnocchi -- potato dumplings with red porgy and white truffle, with Le Rime 2004, Banfi's blend of chardonnay and pinot grigio.

* Petto di Germano Reale -- wild duck breast on celeriac and apple puree with mushrooms, with Rosso di Montalcino, a Banfi sangiovese.

* Coda di bue -- oxtail in an herb crust with polenta and French beans, with Poggio Alle Mura 2000, Banfi's flagship Brunello di Montalcino.

BANFI WINES

Some Banfi wine tasting notes, with stateside full-bottle retail prices:

* 2005 Banfi Centine Rose, Toscana IGT (sangiovese, cabernet sauvignon, merlot): light body, tart cherry flavors, spicy and crisp; $9.

* 2004 Banfi Centine Red, Toscana IGT (sangiovese, cabernet sauvignon, merlot): medium body, black sweet cherry flavors, intense, crisp; $12.

* 2001 Banfi Summus, Sant'Antimo DOC, a "Super Tuscan" blend of brunello, syrah and cabernet sauvignon: heady, rich and smooth, with flavors of mulberries, black plums and black pepper, long finish; $66.

* 1999 Banfi Poggio Alle Mure Brunello di Montalcino DOCG (100 percent brunello): saturated inky color, aromas and flavors of licorice, black plum and mint, liqueur-like viscosity, big, ripe tannins; $81.

* 2004 Banfi Florus Moscadello di Montalcino DOC, Late Harvest: medium-sweet dessert wine, oranges, honey and cinnamon, intensely fruity; $20 per 500 ml (two-thirds) bottle.

--FRED TASKER

ftasker@miamiherald.com

From the big swimming pool with terraced garden, you can see over the hills to the Mediterranean on a clear day. Also in the castle is a reading room with fireplace and facilities for cooking and wine-tasting events. And just past the Enoteca is another fascinating feature, La Balsameria. (See box.)

"Il Borgo is a new way for visitors to enjoy the Tuscan experience," says Mariani-May. "After their grueling sightseeing around Italy's cities, a couple of days here will prepare them for the rest of their voyage."

AN EMBATTLED PAST

Construction began on what today is Castello Banfi in the early 1200s. A good fort was crucial in those violent times. Italy was a tumult of city states that warred with each other over land, trade, gold, religion and simply who should be in charge.

Two of the biggest rivals were independence-minded Siena, in southern Tuscany, and the dictatorial, power-seeking Medici princes of Florence to the north. By 1260, after the Battle of Montaperti, immortalized in Dante's Divine Comedy, the castle became Siena's first line of defense.

For centuries, the preeminent grape of Tuscany was sangiovese, which made the famous wines of Chianti to the north. In the 1880s, it was supplanted in the area around Siena and Montalcino by a sangiovese clone first called Sangioveto Grosso, later renamed Brunello. The new wine, Brunello di Montalcino, was inherently superior, but held back by poor growing and fermenting.

Then came the Americans.

THE MARIANI FAMILY

It's an Italian immigrant story with a twist. In 1919, Giovanni Mariani emigrated from Italy to New York, and, later called John F. Mariani, Sr., founded a wine importing business called Banfi in the city of Old Brookfield. It prospered for decades but began to grow explosively in the 1950s, when his son, John Jr., and John's cousin, Harry, came into the business.

In 1967 they shrewdly introduced Reunite, a soft, sweet, simple Italian Lambrusco they felt would appeal to U.S. soft-drink lovers. Reunite became America's leading wine import for 27 years. And Banfi became America's biggest wine importer.

But John Jr. and Harry had loftier aspirations. In 1978 they branched out back into Italy. They knew the wines of Tuscany, particularly Chianti, had fallen into disrepute from decades of short-sighted poor quality. They set out to pull Tuscan wines into the ranks of the world's top wines.

Thinking big, they purchased 7,100 acres of rolling land near Montalcino -- planted then in corn and olives.

They spent $100 million planting newer, better grapes, renovating Castello Banfi, building a state-of-the art winery just down the hill, equipping it with expensive French oak barrels and temperature-controlled, stainless steel fermenting tanks.

Today Brunello di Montalcino, by Banfi and other local producers, is considered one of the world's great wines. "Chianti on steroids," fans call it.

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