The sidewalk café is in a loud, busy hallway filled with overweight Elvis impersonators leading to the casino's entertainment areas, 20 feet from the nearest binging, bonging slot machine.
Just inside is the P.S. Italian Grill, an informal restaurant serving salads, pastas and grilled items with entrees from $16 to $38. It's all noisy elegance, very Vegas-like, with Eurotech decor of natural wood and brushed metal with muted orange splashes of color.
Appetizers include tender fried calamari with spicy horseradish sauce for $11.75; and Valentino's trademark grilled pizza with aromatic tomato sauce, cheese and fresh herbs at $11.75.
Grilled entrees include Lamb Chops Scottadito with Minty Balsamic Vinegar at $23.75. The Speidini di Carne is skewers of aromatic fennel sausage, spicy turkey and tender, rare beef accompanied by golf-ball-size chunks of crisp, tender grilled polenta, accompanied by unusual, aromatic sweet-and-sour vegetables, is $18.75.
The grill's wine list is limited but imaginative. A nice touch is a portion of the list that lets the diner buy, say, the 1998 Falesco Grechetto white wine from Umbria at $3.50 for a two-ounce glass, $8.75 for a six-ounce glass or $35 for a bottle.
The dessert list includes Tiramisu at $7.95 and Creme Brulée with bananas and strawberries at $7.50.
Passing through the grill, the fine-dining patron finally reaches Nirvana in the cozy main room, an elegant mix of wood, a vaulted ceiling and lighting that filters through Venetian glass.
Here, finally, all is quiet and warmth. Here, the wine list has 2,000 choices. Here, entrees include Wild Mushroom Timbale with Fonduta Sauce and Red Mullet Filet with Port Wine and Fresh Black Summer Truffle. And the prix fixe tasting menus cost $80 and $100 per guest.