More tranquil is the section at Mutianyu, 1 ½ to 2 hours from the capital through picturesque family villages, and well worth the journey. For about $7.25, you can take a cable car to the top (walking will take you a tough hour), stroll along the wall, then slip down on the winding tube of toboggan track. Sounds theme-parkish, but it's lots of fun.

If you're into serious hiking on unrestored sections, the stretch from Simatai to Jinshanling is recommended.

Temple of Heaven: The beauty of Beijing's icon of serenity belies its past as a temple of sacrifice to ensure a bountiful harvest. Originally built in 1420, it was rebuilt in the 1800s after a fire. What's best, perhaps, is watching the Chinese people who come here daily to play cards, dance and sing opera. Most hang out along the Long Corridor, though some are scattered around the park.

Summer Palace: Empress Cixi was the original Iron Maiden, ruling China in the late 19th and early 20th centuries with an unyielding fist that smashed even her son and nephew, ostensibly the nation's monarchs. The Summer Palace was Cixi's stronghold and retreat, a hillside garden of water, temples and pavilions that now, given the sprawl, sit just beyond the city center.

Hutong visits: The hundreds-year-old brick barrel courtyard houses are coming down fast, victims of the Beijing land grab. It's worth taking a hutong tour to the area near the Silver Ingot Bridge; if you don't take an organized tour, a cycle-powered taxi at the north end of the Forbidden City will do the trick.

Peking Duck: Quanjude is the city's most famous eatery for the city's namesake dish, with more than 160 million ducks quacked up for culinary posterity. There are outlets dotted around the city; your best bet is the original. Locals prefer the authenticity of LiQun, a revered family-owned operation whose historic hutong district is fast disappearing.

Cultural performances: Even young Chinese complain they don't quite get the harsh, tonal sounds. Acrobatic performances are easier on the ears and simply astonishing (how do they do that?) -- and more familiar for a Cirque du Soleil generation. Another option: a Kung Fu demo.

Shopping: Wangfujing is worth a stroll for the people-watching. But the goods you can get at home. Head instead to the Silk Alley Market (now indoors in its own five-story tower), where stylish seconds and fake designer goods -- clothes, bags and shoes -- feature familiar brand names at cut-rate prices. You'll also find plenty of Chinese souvenirs and silks, along with freshwater pearls. Haggle hard; you should pay about 25 percent of the asking price. Better for pearls is the Hongqiao Pearl Market near the Temple of Heaven. Note: Beware of electronic goods, camera cards and flash drives. They're often counterfeit or inferior and can quickly fail.

Massage: Throughout China, foot and body massages (clothes on) are an affordable treat, priced at around $20 for a 90-minute experience.

Dashanzi 798 art district: Located between the city center and the airport, 798 is home to more than 120 galleries featuring art that ranges from thought-provoking to predictable, plus a goodly number of cafes. Some areas of this industrial district are still working factories.

Dining/nightlife: The bar/restaurant scene is jumping; ask around for the latest hot spots.

At the Red Capital Club, created by American Laurence Brahm, you can lounge on the actual chairs once used by the Politburo as you sip your champagne, then dine in the courtyard of a restored hutong house. After dessert, check out the authentic Cold War fallout shelter. P.S.: The food is first-rate. www.redcapitalclub.com.cn, (011-86-10) 8401-8886.

Philippe Starck has brought his signature style to Beijing at LanClub, a restaurant/club in the Twin Towers complex in the diplomatic quarter. You know the drill: chandeliers and candelabra galore, paintings on the ceiling and plenty of campy glamour. Conde Nast dubbed it one of the year's hot tables. (011-86-10) 5109-6012.

-- JANE WOOLDRIDGE