As we ap-proach the traditional meat-and-fire fest that is Father's Day, here's food for thought: The National Cancer Institute has linked red meat consumption to greater cancer risk. The United Nations says industrial animal production is among our biggest environmental threats. And Americans eat more meat per capita than citizens of any other country.

There's no better way to express your love for dear old dad than with a meatless meal -- meat-less but umame. That's the Japanese term for the fifth taste humans can register -- not salty, not sweet, but hearty and savory. It's steak, but that's not all.

An awesome umame entree is as near as your supermarket. The mighty portobello mushroom has the chewy consistency of meat, plus it's heart-healthy and chock-full of antioxidants. You can grill it, too (see box), so it has the charred thing going, with almost no calories or fat.

Got a dad who'll never give up his meat and potatoes? Check out The Vegetarian Meat and Potatoes Cookbook (Harvard Common Press, $20.95). It turns faux meats, tofu and seitan (wheat gluten), into meatless versions of serious comfort food like shepherd's pie and pot roast.

Researchers say a mere 20 percent reduction in U.S. meat consumption would have a huge, positive environmental impact. Create a Father's Day tradition that celebrates a happy, healthy dad and a happy, healthy planet.

Ellen Kanner writes biweekly about vegetarian concerns.

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