MORE CRITIC'S PICKS
Miami dining critic Victoria Pesce Elliott also recommends these spots to visiting food fans:• Hiro's Yakko San: Where chefs go after closing their own restaurants for the night, this divey-looking spot serves up delicious, authentic Japanese cooking (no sushi); 17040-46 W. Dixie Hwy., North Miami Beach; 305-947-0064.• Ishq: A culinary tour of India in a warm, welcoming setting; 530 Ocean Dr., Miami Beach; 305-532-4747.• Lido Restaurant and Bayside Grill: Best for lunch, this bayside retreat is unrivaled in Miami for its combination of water views and remarkable food; 40 Island Ave., Miami Beach; 305-673-1717.• Michy's: If you dine out for the food, not the flash, you won't go wrong at Michelle Bernstein's comfy, classy place; 6927 Biscayne Blvd., Miami; 305-759-2001.• Maison d'Azur: Exquisite, ultra-French brasserie fare with a heavy emphasis on seafood in a stunning Mediterranean hideaway; Anglers Hotel, 660 Washington Ave., Miami Beach; 305-534-9600.• Palme d'Or: Expect sublimely flavored and exquisitely prepared French food and exceptional wine service at the Biltmore Hotel's flagship restaurant; 1200 Anastasia Ave., Coral Gables; 305-445-1926.• Sardinia: A convivial staff serves an alluring menu of authentic Sardinian dishes that combine rustic Italian elements with Spanish and North African influences; 1801 Purdy Ave., Miami Beach; 305-531-2228.Food fans in town for the South Beach Wine & Food Festival will want to taste what's new beyond the tents and TV chefs. We're happy to report that in the past 12 months, several restaurants have hit the Miami scene with excellent food, knowledgeable service and winning vibe -- a rare South Florida trifecta.
MICHAEL'S GENUINE
Since opening last March, Michael Schwartz's unassuming Design District restaurant has topped the Miami must-dine list of foodies from near and far. With its regional-seasonal ethic, it's especially good now, at the height of the local harvest.
A wood-burning oven dominates the small open kitchen, turning out the likes of grilled pompano with green onions in provenc¸al vinaigrette and cobia with artichoke and cipiolini onion ragout. The brick-roasted chicken is not to be missed, and a confit of octopus is chewy, tender and tasty in equal measure.
Servers are hip, friendly and helpful, and the boutique wine list is refreshingly value-priced.
Desserts by Miami's most talented sugar spinner, Hedy Goldsmith, include amazing, agave-sweetened berry ice creams and and passion fruit sorbets.
• Michael's Genuine Food & Drink, 130 NE 40th St., Miami; 305-573-5550.
BOURBON STEAK
Success -- in the form of expansion to Las Vegas, Atlantic City, Detroit and beyond -- hasn't spoiled West Coast hero Michael Mina, at least not judging by his Aventura outpost. It's the best thing to hit the local meat circuit -- ever.
Bourbon Steak's debut marks the first time the Fairmont Turnberry Resort has opened its doors to the public -- as long as John Q. Public can afford $190, 6-ounce portions of A5 Kobe beef and $85 lobster pot pies.
The menu, executed by chef Andrew Rothschild (The Forge), seldom veers from steak-house classics, but all are done exceptionally well. Good as the beef is, side dishes like a Parmesan spinach soufflé, potato focaccia and duck-fat fries three ways steal the show.
A wine list with stellar Spanish, California and French picks and desserts like dark Valrhona chocolate pot de crème are more reasons to go.
• Bourbon Steak Miami, Fairmont Turnberry Isle Resort & Club, 19999 W. Country Club Dr., Aventura; 786-279-6600.
JOLEY
This upscale sister of Boca Raton's popular Café Joley is making a go of it in an oddly configured basement space at the Astor Hotel with deliciously decadent menu items from wild mushroom risotto with roasted garlic and mascarpone to a luscious puréed soup of roasted chestnuts.
Chef John Suley's French-inspired dishes can be a tad heavy for the subtropics, but order right and a waterfall side table in the courtyard can be a magical setting for a delicious meal. Salads including red and yellow beets, arugula and Roquefort are great options, as is an expertly seared New York strip. A fine basil martini makes it all go down smoothly.
An unusually attentive and knowledgeable staff and an impressive wine list also distinguish this newcomer.
• Joley Restaurant & Lounge, Astor Hotel, 956 Washington Ave., Miami Beach; 305-534-3343.
IL GABBIANO
A descendant of the original Il Mulino, this stunning, waterfront Italian with charming waiters in white tuxes is all about elegance and excess.
Complimentary appetizers like slivers of fried garlicky zucchini, zesty tomato bruschetta and hunks of aged Parmigiano-Reggiano get you off to a good start. Pastas, including the signature cappelini, are richly sauced and nicely al dente. Fish, like a delicate snapper livornese, is gently treated.
Portions are bigger than you would expect at an authentic Italian ristorante, bridging the gap between Old World and New American.
• Il Gabbiano, 335 S. Biscayne Blvd., Miami; 305-373-0063.
TAVERN N TOWN
Road trippers may want to make the 150-mile trek to Key West to check out veteran chef Norman Van Aken's latest and only remaining South Florida venture. Tavern N Town, at a luxury resort and conference center, offers signature Van Aken dishes such as pan-seared yellowtail with garlic-mashed potatoes and crispy, yuca-stuffed shrimp with habanero tartar salsa, plus a full tapas bar specializing in seafood.
• Tavern N Town, Beachside Resort & Conference Center, 3841 N. Roosevelt Ave., Key West; 305-296-3676.
