Nothing says summer more than some finger-lickin' good barbecue.
With Memorial Day right around the corner, we checked out some options for those who would rather not sweat over hot coals.
RENEGADE BARBEQUE COMPANY
The quality of the food, the service and the size of the portions at Renegade Barbeque Company, in the Seminole Paradise at the Hard Rock Hotel, showed us that ''upscale barbecue'' isn't an oxymoron.
The cavernous dining room has a full bar, lots of big tables to accommodate large parties, and an outdoor patio with tables overlooking the lagoon.
The menu offers options to satisfy even the non-barbecue fan, including salads, swordfish and steaks.
But the main attraction is the smoked meats, which are marinated and slow smoked over Florida oak. We were impressed with the quality, which didn't include a lot of the fat and gristle common to many barbecue places.
The smoked brisket's signature red ring tells you it has been perfectly smoked for hours at low temperature. The poker porker platter features moist and flavorful pork mixed with peas, peppers and onions, served atop french fries. The rack of back ribs offers back loin ribs, which are somewhere between baby back ribs and St. Louis ribs. The meat doesn't fall off the bone, but it's also not overly chewy.
The side dishes include some gourmet selections like wild rice and double-smoked mashed potatoes. The smashed sweet potatoes, loaded with maple syrup and butter, were a little too rich. The macaroni and cheese was incredibly creamy and gooey.
While the prices are a little high, the dinner portions are easily enough for two people -- but there's a $10 sharing charge.
• Renegade Barbeque Company, 5720 Seminole Way, Hollywood; 954-797-5943. Appetizers, salads and sandwiches $10-$12; most dinners $12-$25.
BAR-B-Q JACK'S
We take it as a good sign when we find a crowd lined up at Bar-B-Q Jack's waiting to place orders.
The former Taco Bell is short on atmosphere, but makes up for it in the quality of the food.
If you can't decide, go for the sampler, which offers two spareribs, a quarter chicken and a quarter-pound of pork. The chicken had a nice smoky flavor and was perfectly cooked. The ribs were firm and meaty, without being too chewy. The only disappointment was the pork, which was too fatty for our taste.
The baby back dinner, with good smoky undertones, came with more than a half dozen bones that were much thicker and larger than the ones we're used to.
It's worth taking home a bottle of the sauce ($4.95 a bottle), which has hints of vinegar and pepper to balance out the sweetness.
The huge slab of corn bread was disappointing, lacking nutty corn meal flavor. The mac and cheese casserole would taste better with more cheese. The baked beans had just the right tangy sweetness and plenty of pork tidbits.
Overall, it's easy to see why plenty of locals know ''Jack'' when it comes to barbecue.
• Bar-B-Q Jack's, 500 E. Oakland Park Blvd., Fort Lauderdale; 954-567-9595; www.barbqjacks.com. Sandwich combos $6.99; meal combos $7.25-$13.95.
TEXAS HOLD'EM BBQ
If you drive too fast, you just might miss Texas Hold'Em BBQ. The little shack on the north side of busy Sunrise Boulevard doesn't look like much. It's the enticing smoky aroma that draws you in.
The place is best suited for take-out, but there is outdoor seating at swing tables by the giant smoker or in the tiny dining room with its giant pig statue, pool table clock and other kitsch.
The family dinner menu's portions are ample enough to feed a family of four for $25 or less. We tried the full rack of spare-ribs with large sides of cole slaw and macaroni and cheese, plus a small side of collard greens and a corn muffin.
The overflowing plate of ribs was covered in a tangy sauce that had just the right bite. But the ribs had a little too much gristle and were too chewy.
The corn bread had a surprisingly zesty hint of orange flavor. While the coleslaw was a nice complement to the sweetness of the barbecue, the mac and cheese was short on cheese. The collards, while tender, needed more pork.
It's not a Royal Flush, but worth playing another hand.
• Texas Hold'em BBQ, 525 W. Sunrise Blvd, Fort Lauderdale; 954-764-7427. Dinners $6.25-$13.95; family dinner menu $7-$25.
