Place: Saffrón.
Address: Waterway Shoppes II Plaza, 2320 Weston Rd., Weston.Rating: *** (Very Good)Contact: 954-217-4008, saffronlatinbistro.com.Hours: 11 a.m.- 3 p.m. Monday-Friday, 6-10 p.m. Monday-Thursday, until 11 p.m. Friday-Saturday. Closed Sunday.Prices: Tapas $5-$12, entrees $17-$29, paella $33-$60, dessert $5-$8.FYI: Beer and wine; corkage fee $15. Free self-parking, kids' menu. Live music Wednesday night. AX, DS, MS, VS.At twilight, we're sipping a glass of Spanish wine while watching a row of ducklings glide by in a tranquil lake. It's a lovely spot to savor a balmy Florida night, so already, we're feeling good about Saffrón.
Billed as a modern Latin bistro, the Weston storefront has a sprawling lakeside patio, where tables are draped with white tablecloths. Early evening, candles are lit; later, torches will blaze. Inside, the dining room has dark woods, intimate lighting, bold abstract art and a mix of well-spaced booths and tables. You'll practically have the place to yourselves before 7:30, when it picks up.
Saffrón's sweet young staff is attentive, but not always knowledgeable about the menu. On one visit, our server didn't know the soup of the day (we were the first diners) -- and went back to the kitchen a few times to get answers to our food questions.
Nevertheless, owner José Uribe, from Colombia, and his Dominican wife, Maria, are onto something. Their moderately priced, pan-Latin menu goes beyond the usual. Only one dish -- bacon-wrapped tournedos of pork -- comes with rice and beans. Servings are generous, with interesting sides like a ''collage purée'' of Idaho potatoes and sweet potatoes with a smoky hint of bacon, wonderfully crisp malanga chips and tostones and saffron-seasoned rice.
There are nearly a dozen tapas choices. Seafood ceviche, with shrimp, green mussels, clams, shrimp and red snapper, is as refreshing as a dip in a cool spring. We liked the sautéed shrimp, set atop artichoke slices with a piece of serrano ham in a slightly sweet cream sauce. Delicious, Spanish-style potatoes are cubed and deep-fried without a hint of grease. The $12 ham and cheese plate is a basic assortment of serrano, prosciutto, sausage, manchego, Swiss, Gouda and olives.
Saffrón's respectable wine list offers 45 bottles from Spain, France, California and Italy, with suggestions for pairings. Our $40 albariño was light and crisp, great with our mostly seafaring choices. The list is on the pricey side -- bottles are $30 and up, with four by-the-glass options at $6.
Red snapper, deglazed in brandy and sautéed with green peppers and onions, is finished with a delicate cream sauce that doesn't overwhelm the fresh flavor of the fish. It's served with asparagus and the potato-bacon purée, but for a companion who doesn't eat meat, our server brought a large bowl of perfectly sautéed veggies -- along with a separate bowl of the potatoes for the rest of us to enjoy.
The menu also features a crisp, whole snapper and a mahi-mahi fillet stuffed with shrimp and cream cheese -- rich and flavorful, served with angel-hair pasta. For $18, you get an ample serving of medium-size shrimp in an OK Creole-style sauce. Paella is on the menu Monday through Thursday in a generous single serving, with a two-person version served Friday and Saturday. Either requires about 45 minutes (call ahead).
One of the best dishes here is the juicy, mojo-seasoned grilled chicken, which held up even in a takeout order. They also do a fine job on skirt steak with an especially zesty chimichurri sauce. At lunchtime, stop by for daily specials like meat lasagne or chicken for $7.99.
Saffrón ends your meal with sweet satisfaction. Both of our choices -- a slice of homey coconut flan topped with toasted coconut flakes and an ultra-rich chocolate lava cake with vanilla ice cream, whipped cream and a garnish of fresh berries -- were scrumptious.
Sophisticated enough for a special night out yet relaxed and family-friendly, Saffrón is a welcome addition to the Weston restaurant scene.
