BROWARD ROUNDUP
Eateries offer zesty tastes of Mideast fare
Posted on Thu, Mar. 20, 2008
BY ELAINE WALKER And SPENCER ROSE
CANDACE WEST / MIAMI HERALD STAFF
Patrick Mascola and Jani Mucollari, owner of Avra Taverna, dine next to a mural of a Greek seaside.
Not many of us can afford a trip to the Mediterranean or the Middle East these days, so here's a culinary journey around Broward County that will satisfy your appetite for baba ghanoush and baklava.
AVRA TAVERNA
Avra Taverna in Fort Lauderdale is a cross between a Greek seaside tavern and a nightclub. It all depends on when you show up.
If you're in the mood for a quiet dinner, arrive early. By 8:30 p.m. on Friday and Saturday, belly dancers take the stage under the disco ball, followed by a Greek band.
Whenever you come, you'll find a vast menu of traditional Greek favorites plus pricier fresh seafood.
The Greek food works well on a budget because you can order a variety of generous ''small'' plates to share. The spanakopita has a light and flaky, just-baked quality, and the fried calamari is crispy with a bit of a peppery kick.
The best deal on the menu: a gyro platter that includes a generous portion of lamb, a Greek salad and piping hot, house-made fries. Our least-satisfying dish: a bland, overly oily breast of chicken Ladoregand, which had none of the promised lemony zest.
The house-made baklava, with a heavy dose of cinnamon and a finely chopped mix of nuts, is a great variation on a Greek classic.
Avra Taverna, 3001 E. Commercial Blvd., Fort Lauderdale; 954-616-1514, avrataverna.com: Appetizers and small plates $5.45-$14.95, traditional entrees $10.95-$15.95, seafood $18.95-$32.95.
GIORGIO'S BAKERY & BISTRO
Giorgio's Bakery & Bistro in Hollywood is that rare South Florida find: a waterfront setting for an affordable, quality meal.
Just down the street from its higher-priced siblings, Giorgio's Grill and Taverna Opa, this deli and cafe is easy to overlook. Still, on a nice night, tables at the patio along the Intracoastal can be hard to come by. Inside, the atmosphere is like a European market café with an open kitchen and communal tables.
The menu, which offers breakfast, lunch and dinner, has Greek, Italian, French and American favorites, from moussaka and frittatas to grilled grouper and prosciutto sandwiches. The beauty is that the most expensive item is $16 (rib-eye steak), and most are under $10.
Save some of the complimentary, fresh-baked baguette for soaking up the flavorful tomato sauce of the frutti di mare pasta, a bowl loaded with calamari, mussels and shrimp -- way too much for one. Pair it with a Greek country salad featuring chunks of feta cheese, kalamata olives and a lemony vinaigrette, and you'll easily have a meal for two.
The long-simmered lamb shank is falling-off-the-bone tender. Served with tomato orzo, it's a flavorful dish for a hearty appetite.
Next time we plan to try the thin-crust pizzas made in a wood-burning oven that reminds us fondly of our Italian honeymoom.
Even if you're stuffed, it's hard to pass up the cases of fresh-baked chocolate layer cakes, tiramisu, napoleons and other desserts. Take one home for later or vow to return another night for coffee and dessert under the stars.
Giorgio's Bakery & Bistro, 800 N. Ocean Dr., Hollywood; 954-929-5550, giorgiosbakery.com: Breakfast $1.25-$9.95, sandwiches and salads $6.50-$8.50, entrees and pasta $7.50-$16.
AL-SALAM
Al-Salam is one of those places you won't find unless someone sends you there. Tucked in a Plantation strip mall, the Middle Eastern restaurant is attached to a market that sells everything from spices to pita bread and desserts.
The family-oriented restaurant is no-frills, with a Middle Eastern version of MTV playing on flat-screen televisions. Large parties of regulars come for the family grill platter, a dozen kebabs on a platter almost the size of the table.
If your group is smaller, there are still an overwhelming number of choices. One great option is the Al Salam mixed appetizer platter, which includes baba ghanoush, moussaka, tabouli, kibbeh, grape leaves, lemony hummus and falafel that was crispy on the outside and light and creamy inside.
The chicken kebab was nicely charred yet moist inside, flavored by a tangy, vinegar-based marinade. One kebab was enough for two with a side salad and a serving of rice seasoned with cardamom, tumeric, coriander and other traditional spices.
Al-Salam, 1816 N. University Dr., Plantation; 954-916-5193, al-salamrestaurant.com: Appetizers $3.49-$6.99, sandwiches $3.49-$6.99, platters $9.99-$14.99.
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