MORE CRITIC'S PICKS
Miami dining critic Victoria Pesce Elliott also recommends these spots to visiting food fans:• Hiro's Yakko San: Where chefs go after closing their own restaurants for the night, this divey-looking spot serves up delicious, authentic Japanese cooking (no sushi); 17040-46 W. Dixie Hwy., North Miami Beach; 305-947-0064.• Ishq: A culinary tour of India in a warm, welcoming setting; 530 Ocean Dr., Miami Beach; 305-532-4747.• Lido Restaurant and Bayside Grill: Best for lunch, this bayside retreat is unrivaled in Miami for its combination of water views and remarkable food; 40 Island Ave., Miami Beach; 305-673-1717.• Michy's: If you dine out for the food, not the flash, you won't go wrong at Michelle Bernstein's comfy, classy place; 6927 Biscayne Blvd., Miami; 305-759-2001.• Maison d'Azur: Exquisite, ultra-French brasserie fare with a heavy emphasis on seafood in a stunning Mediterranean hideaway; Anglers Hotel, 660 Washington Ave., Miami Beach; 305-534-9600.• Palme d'Or: Expect sublimely flavored and exquisitely prepared French food and exceptional wine service at the Biltmore Hotel's flagship restaurant; 1200 Anastasia Ave., Coral Gables; 305-445-1926.• Sardinia: A convivial staff serves an alluring menu of authentic Sardinian dishes that combine rustic Italian elements with Spanish and North African influences; 1801 Purdy Ave., Miami Beach; 305-531-2228.Every neighborhood needs restaurants that locals can call their own -- the kind of spots where the servers recognize you, there's no hour-long wait for a table on a Saturday night and they don't complain if your child spills a drink on the floor.
Here are three places worth checking out if you live nearby or happen to be in the neighborhood.
SAKE THAI & SUSHI
In a space that has seen a revolving door of delis, Saké Thai & Sushi Bar is demonstrating staying power. Unlike most Asian hybrids, Saké does a worthy job on both Thai dishes and Japanese sushi. Since opening last summer, the restaurant has built a following in Hollywood's western neighborhoods among folks hungry for non-chain dining.
The pieces of salmon, tuna and hamachi (yellowtail) are incredibly fresh and generously cut. A light eater can make a meal out of a large roll like the Rainbow or the Saké Roll special. Our only complaint: the tempura shrimp in the Dragon Roll came out cold. But the server quickly addressed the problem and the second try was a success.
On the Thai side of the menu, the ''red curry'' and ''authentic Thai spice'' dishes both feature flavorful seasoning blends. (Medium heat is the standard, so speak up if you prefer hot or mild.) The special Pad Thai is loaded with chicken, pork, beef and shrimp, but lost points because it was overly greasy. On our next visit we want to try the signature whole fish, which looked impressive.
• Saké Thai & Sushi Bar, 4401 Sheridan St., Hollywood; 954-989-1515, sakethai.com. Small and large rolls $3.50-$13.95, Thai entrees $8.95-$22.95.
PRIMANTI BROTHERS
We took it as a good sign when there wasn't an empty table on a Thursday night at Wilton Manors' Primanti Brothers, a cozy restaurant with an open kitchen.
The key attraction is the Tuesday and Thursday family pizza special: a super-large 18-inch pie with three toppings, plus a pitcher of soda or beer. At $16.99, it's a perfect budget dinner for four in these tough economic times.
Another bargain special: The bottomless pasta bowl with two meatballs at $7.99 per person on Mondays and Wednesdays.
Primanti's two Broward County locations are southern outposts of a Pittsburgh chain that got its start selling sandwiches to truck drivers and dock workers. Legend has it they forgot to buy plates and silverware for opening night, so they piled meat, cheese, french fries, coleslaw and tomatoes between two thick slices of Italian bread.
The tradition lives on with Primanti's ''Almost Famous Sandwiches.'' One of the top sellers is the Pitts-Burger, a uniquely seasoned sirloin patty with provolone cheese plus all the above toppings. The menu also includes an assortment of salads, burgers, oven-baked hoagies and chicken wings.
If you're looking for something more traditional, there's a wide selection of pasta and Italian favorites. The signature Penne Pasta Primanti with chicken, Italian sausage, tomatoes, peppers and more tastes like it simmered in a big pot on some Italian grandmother's stove.
It may bust your calorie budget, but it's worth saving room for a $4.25 slice of the ultra chocolate cake -- layers of brownie, chocolate mousse and chocolate fudge.
• Primanti Brothers, 516 Oakland Park Blvd., Wilton Manors, 954-565-7100; 901 N. Atlantic Blvd., Fort Lauderdale, 954-565-0605; primantibrothers.com. Sandwiches $3.75-$5.95, pasta and entrees (with side salad) $6.75-$10.55.
BEEF O' BRADY'S
Beef O' Brady's proves that kids and sports pubs don't have to be mutually exclusive. The Tampa-based chain with five South Florida locations offers a familiar array of comfort/bar food with a few healthy options thrown in to avoid mom's veto. The menu runs the gamut from chicken wings to wraps, burgers, fried seafood baskets and salads. All but one item on the menu is under $10.
Skip the boneless wings and opt for either chicken fingers or wings. The O' Brady Burger tastes as good as one off the backyard grill. The Santa Fe Chicken salad offered plenty of chicken but could have used a bigger tortilla shell to hold more lettuce.
While you're watching a game on one of the numerous flat screen televisions in the loud, laid-back dining room, the kids can play video games nearby. There's also a private room perfect for little league team gatherings or birthday parties.
• Beef O' Brady's, 8655 Stirling Rd., Cooper City; 954-689-4747; also Coral Springs, Sunrise, Miami Lakes, Homestead; beefobradys.com. Burgers and sandwiches $7.29-$9.79, baskets $7.99-$13.99 and salads $4.59-$9.49.
